DESTINATION | march 2010

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MAKE THE SCENE

Located just under 200 miles from Puerto Rico, the island of St. Maarten has a bit of a split personality. The northern half of the destination is French (they call it “St. Martin”), and it’s where you’d want to go for quiet and low-key relaxation. Here you’ll find Orient-Express’ La Samanna resort, for example, with its gorgeous, secluded beach and holistic-minded spa. When it comes to cutting loose, however, it’s all about St. Maarten, the island’s Dutch side. Casinos, nightlife, shops, restaurants – they’re all here, and much more. Think Amsterdam (and all that’s legal there) and add sand, skin and – in increasing numbers – celebrities.

Where to go

During the day, stroll along Front Street and Great Bay Beach boardwalk, home to shops like St. Maarten Guavaberry Emporium, makers of the island’s famous sweet liquor, and That Yoda Guy, an art store/gallery run by the special-effects artists who designed the original Yoda figure. Along the way, lunch at Oualichi, overlooking the water, or stay for happy hour at Taloula Mango’s.

Once the sun goes down, most scene-makers head to the Maho strip for the casinos, clubs and restaurants, like stylish sushi hub Bamboo Bernies. At the lively Soprano’s Piano Bar, a late-night crowd – including island regulars like Joey Fatone and Lance Bass of ’NSync and Robert Iler of “The Sopranos” – belts out tunes by everyone from Journey to Jay-Z, while bottle service and booty-shaking can be found at clubs like Bliss and Tantra. Celeb DJs like Rev Run of RUN-DMC have spun at the latter.

Where to Stay

Though it’s a bit of a hike from party central, the Westin Dawn Beach Resort & Spa is one of the top games in town, with spacious, comfortable rooms, killer beds, an extensive beach and even a mini on-site casino.

USEFUL SITE:
www.vacationsmaarten.com

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Sometimes you just need to disconnect…for me there’s nothing like the beach. Anywhere I can sleep with the doors open listening to the waves break throughout the evening without suffocating in humid sheets is heaven.

Although I can’t help you get around the senseless new luggage fee, I can suggest a perfect destination to disconnect. A quick two-hour flight can have you in Palm Beach, Florida. Tack on about 30minutes for baggage and the drive to property – specifically The Ritz Carlton.

The Ritz Carlton Palm Beach is, well, very Palm Beach. Understated luxury with a warm welcome. Built in the 90’s the property has slowly undergone over $130 million in renovations and additions to become the resort it is today.

There is an ease to the property that overtakes you as soon as you step from reception and into the lobby area – which is really more like a grand Palm Beach estate living room and is so well done that the word “lobby” shouldn’t even be used in the same sentence. The décor soothes and with each passing day feels more and more like someone’s home as guests converge in this area throughout the day. In the evenings, the bar right off this area becomes Stir, a fitting bar to see and be seen.

Palm Beach is great for a quick getaway and there really is no need to leave the property. The pools are perfection with a variety of nooks and crannies to carve out your spot should you choose to languish poolside with a cooling cocktail and your latest Kindle download. Known for their attention to detail, the Ritz staff never falters, sporadically walking by with frozen grapes or refreshing fruit smoothies. The beach is small, but somehow it’s really all you need and is lovely for early morning walks.

The Eau Spa by Cornelia, all 41,000 square feet, is an element all its own…completed in March of 2009, the spa celebrates its first birthday this month. This über sophisticated spa quite literally puts the concept of wellness in a tailspin. They say people who laugh and are generally happy live longer, and this spa does just that. It mingles interior and exteriors perfectly, creating peace and harmony while somehow managing to eliminate all the “am I doing this right” questions spas can sometimes cause. The rituals at the spa begin and end each visit ceremoniously, bringing purpose to creating “me time.”

It’s playful in its décor and application of spa-y elements. The Jacuzzi features various-sized rubber duckies, and if that doesn’t make you smile even a little on the inside then you probably need way more in your life than a spa. Whimsical champagne glass chandeliers beckon a bubbly demeanor while a life-size chess board invites you to play outside. The outdoor garden is another journey where water elements soothe with the sense of sound, while lavender wafts through the air innately relaxing you. There is no music as the sounds of wind chimes and water running are musical on their own. At the end of the space a massaging pebble rock wall over which cascading warm water runs down onto a bench is the perfect spot to end your experience right after you’ve relaxed in one of the cocoon swinging chairs suspended over a shallow fountain of water.

There’re also cooking classes with Executive Chef Ryan worth checking out. I perfected the yogurt parfait and am working on the perfect Ritz flip of the over easy eggs with no browning. The food is fantastic as can only be expected of a Ritz Carlton property. A dinner in a beachside cabana overlooking the ocean is a must, as well.

I should also mention that the kids and teen programs and area are not just an afterthought at this property. They have their own world that feels like an underground cove. Upon entry it starts out as a ship with rooms off the sides, one is a rock wall for kids and leads into a hall which is a stage where kids put on their own shows while others can watch. That room leads into another space with a carved out nook lined with cushions of all colors and sizes where kids can chillax and read or watch TV on the plasma screen. There’s a designated area for Wii and Rockstar jams. And last but not least, there’s a glamour room where girls can get all dolled up with a closet full of clothes and shoes to play dress up and have their hair and makeup done in the “salon” followed by instant glamour shots.

The GM shared a story with me about a particular guest from New York who had booked a night to disconnect, but the blizzard of 2010 caused her to cancel. I have no doubt she took a snow check.

USEFUL SITE:
www.ritzcarlton.com

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DON’T GO BLUE

When a friend of mine, Dieter, recently told me he was going on a scuba diving trip with another of our buddies, Ricardo, he suggested I should tag along. I wasn’t sure I could handle scuba diving four times a day for eight days in the middle of nowhere without stepping foot on land…

But Alex Cousteau took over and before I knew it, I signed up for it!

First task at hand was finding out what someone would need to take for this kind of trip.

1. A refresher in scuba diving is prime, plus get familiar with your scuba diving computer as you will depend on it for this trip.
2. Your own mask, fins and wetsuit.
3. DAN (divers alert network) insurance.

So I headed to Sea Sports Scuba on Westheimer, where they have a swimming pool in the back of the store where you can get in and try all of your new equipment firsthand, familiarizing yourself. I bought some of the equipment and rented the rest.

The trip began aboard the Nautilus Explorer, a first-class, live-aboard dive boat with capacity for 24 divers plus the crew. The voyage took us to the Revillagigedo archipelago – a one-day ocean crossing from Cabo San Lucas – to a small cluster of protected natural reserve islands.

Boarding the Nautilus Explorer I was assigned to cabin C, where I met my roomy from Sweden, “Harry,” Harry has been on this trip three times already and is going on his fourth followed by his fifth as soon as our voyage ends. I can’t understand how he could do the same trip back to back. But we’ll get back to Harry later on.

We started with a meet-and-greet of the crew and the other guests. Everyone went around the group introducing themselves and I quickly realized I am the least experienced diver aboard. Most are in the business or somehow related to diving. Others, like Harry, are just true aficionados. So when it came to me, I told everyone I’ve been diving for two years to make myself sound good, knowing full well that I’ve only done it at the resort level.

After the briefing I approached Pedro, one of the dive masters, and told him my diving skills. He took me over to my diving station and gave me a walk-thru of my equipment, computer and what to expect on the first dive. After fifteen minutes at sea someone spotted whales and then a group of about a hundred dolphins swam along the bow of the ship. It was amazing looking at all those dolphins swim alongside the boat! Only a few minutes into the trip and I’d already spotted whales and dolphins.

The first night following dinner we received our first dive briefing. Basically, the dive masters go over the conditions of the dive and what to expect at the location: depth, currents, animals and location.

There are always three dive masters in each trip and their knowledge of the dive spots is remarkable.

Our typical day consists of:

- 7:15am pre-breakfast (coffee, cereal and fruit)
- 7:45am dive #1
- 9:30am breakfast (eggs, pancakes, French toast, etc.)
- 10:30am dive #2
- 12:45pm lunch
- 2:00pm dive #3
- 3:15pm snack (sushi, cold meats, etc.)
- 4:30pm dive #4
- 7:00pm cocktail hour
- 7:15pm dive briefing if we were diving at a new location the next day
- 7:30pm dinner
- 11:45pm last call on alcohol (we need to be sober for the 7:30am dive)

It needs to be mentioned that before and after each dive, the crew comes around handing out water or tea as well as fruit or some kind of pastry. This is no shabby diving excursion!

We dove in three different locations:

The Canyons: The name says it all! It’s a huge canyon. I encountered giant mantas, whale shark, dolphins, morays and hammerhead sharks – and not just one or two, hundreds of them at about 110 feet. The giant manta rays are all over this spot; at one point we interacted with four mantas.

The Boiler: A huge underwater formation that looks like a giant boiler and the top is barely under water. The underwater current made the boiler a little harder to dive but well worth it. Here I encountered dolphins, giant mantas, white tip and black tip sharks.

Roca Partida (split rock): A piece of rock in the middle of the ocean and the only thing you see is the tip of this underwater volcano that functions as a cleaning station for the sea life who frequent it. Here I had my first dive with dolphins; they get so close that you can reach out and touch them. They swam around me for a good two minutes before swimming away. I encountered the most diverse sea life of them all, with all types of sharks, silkies, silver tips, white tips, Galapagos and hammerheads.

Did I mention the Humpback whales? They’re a little more shy and although we spotted them on different occasions around the boat, the only way to catch a glimpse of them is by jumping into the water with mask and fins! There was no way to get in full gear. They move so fast and are gone in a matter of minutes, but a guest on the boat, Bob, our whale whisperer (well, that’s what I called him) would jump in every single time and swim a few miles to see this fantastic animal.

Looking back, I can say that I looked forward to each dive never knowing what kind of sea life was waiting down there. On one dive a giant manta was swimming and a whale shark came out of nowhere and crossed its path. That was amazing to see, as it was a split second and only a few of us were lucky enough to witness it. Although new at this, I am hooked on the live-aboard scuba trip! Getting more and more comfortable and confident in my abilities with each dive.

Back to my roommate, Harry…I now understand why he keeps coming back to the Nautilus Explorer. Every trip is an adventure and is never the same as the previous one.

Signing off, Alejandro Martinez, aka Alex Cousteau

Insider tip: Once off the boat and back on land, you will experience the movement of the boat for at least two days…And always remember do not go blue!

USEFUL INFO:

- NAUTILUS EXPLORER
PO Box 97182 | Richmond, B.C., | Canada V6X 8H3
01.604.657.7614 Toll-free 1.888.434.8322
info@nautilusexplorer.com | www.nautilusexplorer.com

- SEA SPORTS SCUBA
7543 Westheimer | Houston, TX 77063
713.977.0028 | ken.b@seasportsscuba.com
www.seasportsscuba.com

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POSADA TIME

When I told people I was going to Santa Fe for a short trip, almost all the comments were unanimously, “Wow, it’s beautiful out there!” So you can imagine the build-up…

My arrival exceeded all expectations.

A one-hour drive from Albuquerque International Airport and I’m in the heart of downtown Santa Fe, New Mexico. The beautiful adobe-style architecture Santa Fe is so well known for embraced me. The air is light, crisp and pristine. Beautiful yellow foliage lines all the trees setting the tone.

Nestled two blocks from the historic Plaza & Canyon Road is La Posada de Santa Fe Resort & Spa™, my home away from home for the next 3 days. This charming and magical resort is a harmonious mix of traditional and contemporary along with luxury and rustic. It is infused with impeccable landscaping, outside fireplaces and patios plus art – loads of art everywhere. I just couldn’t believe this oasis was right in the middle of the city. La Posada and its 157 guest rooms have gone through an extensive renovation recently. The original building dates back to 1700 but most of its character and historic value have been kept. My newly refurbished room was a perfect refuge of comfort and coziness. The décor with traditional adobe walls, a fireplace, huge windows, rustic/modern furniture, wi-fi, 37” LCD Panel TV… just give me one of those plushy robes and I will never want to leave.

The luxurious Spa offers many unique signature treatments. I was feeling adventurous that day and I have a weakness for chocolate so I chose the Chocolate Chile Wrap. As the name suggests, I was wrapped in chocolate and chile lotion for 50 minutes. Nourished with antioxidants and drenched in rich moisturizers, it’s not as aromatic as one would think, but it leaves this hint of chocolate on your skin. (The weather in Sante Fe can be drier than we Houstonians are used to, so bring some lip balm.) Many other treatments are available like the Spirit of Santa Fe or Pueblo Salt Glow – your rejuvenated body will thank you for it!

I participated in a cooking class/demo with the renowned Chef Mary Nearn at über-elegant Fuego Restaurant. Some of my favorites were the rich, roasted butternut squash soup with cider reduction and toasted pumpkin seeds and the incredibly moist and flavorful porcini-dusted salmon with asparagus and beurre rouge.  Lending its name from the original family that owned the building, Staab House Bar is located on the first floor of La Posada. The intimate Victorian-meets-boho lounge offers the perfect ambience to enjoy a signature tequila cocktail while listening to the music and mingling with the locals.

Orchestrating the numerous art pieces displayed around the resort is Sara Eyestone, the resort’s own passionate curator/artist. Her enthusiasm is contagious as she tours guests to the works of local and national artists such as Susan Contreras, Kathleen Frank and John Farnsworth. Within walking distance I found a vast number of galleries and museum, ranging from historic sites, contemporary, ba-roque to you name it. Obviously I can’t forget to mention Georgia O’Keeffe, whose heritage can be felt everywhere – after all, it is O’Keeffe country.

Santa Fe celebrates its 400th anniversary in 2010, and the festivities will be going on throughout the year – do you need a better excuse to make a trip of it?

USEFUL SITES:
-La Posada de Santa Fe Resort and SPA, a Rockresort,
330 E. Palace Ave. | www.laposada.rockresorts.com | 505.986.0000

-Sandia Shuttle
Toll Free- 888.775.5696 | www.santafenm.gov

-The Rainbow Man
107 E. Palace Road | 505.982.8706 | www.therainbowman.com
Native American Tribe photographs, sculptures and artifacts; this store is a time portal.

-New Mexico History Museum
113 Lincoln Avenue | 505.476.5200  | www.nmhistorymuseum.org

Restaurant Martín
526 galisteo street, 505.820.0919 | www.restaurantmartinsantafe.com
This award-winning restaurant offers the best Buffalo Burger I’ve eaten!

-Georgia O’Keeffe Museum
217 Johnson Street, Santa Fe 87501 | www.okeeffemuseum.org
Get to know a little bit more about this American Art Icon.

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MAKING WINE SING

This trip really begins Friday evening when my husband Pedro and I pick up the convertible 2010 Audi A5 at Audi West Houston. This cool gunmetal grey baby with a black soft-top complete with all the accoutrements – L.E.D lights, automatically retractable roof, satellite radio, heated seats (essential feature, especially when facing freezing temperatures), and the new MMI® navigation plus system – is fundamental for a trip just like this! The soft-top is engineered so well that you can not tell the difference between it and a regular hardtop. Both are equally whisper-quiet. So we buckle in, crank up the good old iPod and set the navigator system to “alternate route” hoping for a picturesque scenic route. Located only 90 minutes from Houston, Messina Hof Winery & Resort is the perfect weekend destination.

In a community steeped in tradition, Messina Hof Winery & Resort (named after the founders’ ancestral homelands) holds its own with a 200-year history of award-winning wines. Although the winery itself was officially established when they released their first vintage in 1983, the rich wine heritage of Winemaker Paul Bonarrigo dates back six generations to Messina, Sicily. Merrill Bonarrigo’s family originates from Hof, Germany. Together they have pioneered the Texas wine industry in creating premium wines of distinction and a landmark wine country destination.

Upon arrival we literally feel our stress fade away – the winery is so charming and quaint as if we’d been magically transported to the rolling hills of the French country, to a 19th- century chateau. Ah! So close, but yet so far…got to love it!

We had arranged accommodations at The Villa, their B&B that houses ten romantically unique rooms, each decorated with European antiques and 18th-century stained glass, and  individually themed, giving guests a one-of-a-kind experience. The Villa has been recognized as one of the most romantic Bed & Breakfasts in Texas and it’s easy to see why. It is so relaxing, we actually find it tempting to not leave our room to explore our surrounding – all 100 acres to be exact.

Hunger eventually sets in giving us the perfect excuse to get out of chillax mode and ready for a VERY important dinner date.

You see, days prior to our arrival we received a personal invitation from Paul and Merrill Bonarrigo for dinner. Paul arrived wearing his trademark red beret and Merrill her beautiful smile. The Vintage House is exactly what we expected. Antique chandeliers emit a soft orange glow creating the perfect ambience, while ceiling-high walls are covered with shelving structures cradling hundreds of barrels containing future vintages. The décor is elegant without being stuffy, rustic accents provide the perfect country feel, and the service is first-class.

The menu features their exclusive Vineyard Cuisine. Chef Ken Richards uses only the finest and freshest ingredients available…all naturally prepared; they even grow some of their own produce. Each and every dish incorporates one of their award-winning wines, and all of their meats are marinated in Messina Hof wines.

At dinner Paul and Merrill treat us to some of their favorite wines: a Pinot Noir – fruity and elegant; a Chardonnay – crisp, aromatic, woody and rich; a Muscat Canelli – pleasantly fragrant and fruity; and, my favorite, a Cabernet Franc Private Reserve which was double barrel aged in European oak and then in American oak. It was rich and bursting with blackberry, vanilla and allspice flavors.

My husband and I love red wines, and even though we don’t have a sommelier’s title under our belt, we are pretty good at distinguishing good quality wine. We both bravely confess to Mr. and Ms. Bonarrigo that the wines had completely exceeded our expectations. For years we’ve been “conditioned” to think that quality wines must be imports; we often find ourselves choosing wine based on country of origin instead of personal taste. After our insightful tour we realized that times are changing and that wine production is no longer geographically limited. Award-winning wines are being produced every year in our homeland and most importantly in Texas.

We must admit, spending time with Paul and Merrill was a true highlight of the trip. After some candid conversations and plenty of giggles, it was clear to us that the magic this winery possesses is a reflection of their love for one another, for life and for all that surrounds them. They are truly inspiring!

USEFUL SITES:
www.audiwest.com
www.messinahof.com

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A MUSICAL LIFE

Back in the mid-1990s, I was walking near Prague’s Charles Bridge when I came upon a group of five elderly street musicians performing jazz. Not just any type of jazz, mind you, but authentic Dixieland – the kind you’d hear down in New Orleans (or maybe in a Woody Allen movie), but rarely anywhere else. When I expressed surprise at hearing something so authentically American all the way in Prague, my guide just smiled. “During Communism, people would secretly play jazz and rock-and-roll – things that symbolized the West,” he explained. “It helped us feel connected to the outside world.” As further proof, later that night he took my friends and me to a music venue that seemed like a holdover from those Eastern Bloc days. Set down a winding staircase, the tiny underground cave was packed tight with patrons sipping beers, puffing on cigarettes and listening reverently to a traditional jazz combo. The whole scene was so 1950’s beatnik, I almost expected to see hipsters in black turtlenecks snapping their fingers.

Over a decade later, the Czech Republic has become a bustling tourist favorite with plenty of Western influences (see: Subway sandwich shops) and a thriving, open economy (it’s part of the European Union). Happily, music is still a big part of Prague’s cultural scene. The city hosts numerous festivals and concert series throughout the year, celebrating genres both classic and contemporary. Many of these performances take place at unique locations like castles and ornate historic halls, which offer backdrops as dramatic as the musical programs themselves.

WHERE TO GO:

In late-1989, Czechoslovakia’s non-violent Velvet Revolution led to the overthrow of decades of authoritarian rule and the establishment of the first non-Communist government in over 50 years, with playwright Václav Havel as the new democratic President. Soon after, President Havel invited the Rolling Stones to perform at Prague Castle to a crowd of over 100,000 – a powerful event for the new republic. The stunning castle, set on a hilltop overlooking the city, is still a popular spot for classical performances, as is Municipal House’s Smetana Hall, a 1911 Art Nouveau gem decorated with works from noted early-20th century Czech artists.

Opera and Prague have had a long love affair; after all, this is where Mozart conducted “The Marriage of Figaro” in 1786 and premiered “Don Giovanni” the following year. (Side note: Parts of the movie “Amadeus” were filmed in Prague, as well.) Aficionados can still enjoy passionate pieces at the Prague National Theater (also home to the ballet), the Theater of the Estates (where Mozart often worked) and the Prague State Opera. (www.czechopera.cz)

Along with all the traditional performances, Prague is also famous for its more off-beat offerings. Marionette and puppet shows are popular, as is Black Light Theater, a unique combination of acting, acrobatics and puppetry performed under ultraviolet light. There are nine black light theaters currently in operation in town; the biggest is WOW (www.wow-show.com).

And that underground cellar I went to way back when? It’s called Downstairs at U Maleho Glena and still hosts top-notch jazz and blues every night. (www.malyglen.cz)

WHERE TO GO:

Prague hosts several major music festivals every year. Ones to watch include:

The Prague Winter Music Festival (www.praguewinter.com) is held over five days every January. Now in its 38th year, the festival’s program of mainly opera, ballet and classical events takes place at key locations around town, including the famous Dvorak Hall at the Rudolfinum.

Typically held in May/June, the renowned Prague Spring Festival, which began in 1946, features an international roster of classical stars. The 2010 lineup includes conductor/composer Andre Previn, who will lead the Czech Philharmonic, as well as classical Indian sitar virtuoso Anoushka Shankar. (www.festival.cz)

Over its 30-plus-year history, the International Jazz Festival Prague (www.jazzfestivalpraha.cz) has hosted such legends as Ray Charles, B. B. King and Jean-Luc Ponty.  Strings of Autumn, running from October into November, spotlights the relationship between classical and jazz (www.strunypodzimu.cz), while Prague Autumn, taking place in September/October, welcomes performers from such diverse genres as flamenco and gypsy orchestras (www.pragueautumn.cz). Meanwhile, the timeless operas of Giuseppe Verdi are celebrated every August during the Verdi Festival (www.opera.cz).

WHERE TO STAY:

Located in the Mala Strana neighborhood not far from the Charles Bridge, the stylish Aria Hotel’s 52 rooms and suites are each named after a musical legend, from composers like Dvorak and Beethoven to Elvis, Billie Holiday and Tito Puente. Each luxe chamber boasts a free, Internet-equipped flatscreen TV loaded with info on the particular artist, plus CD and DVD players and iPods loaded with 520 songs. There’s also an on-staff Music Concierge (musician/historian Dr. Ivana Stehlikova) who can help with concert planning and tickets, plus an extensive library of music and movies which guests can enjoy in the tricked-out screening room. (www.ariahotel.net)