THE ROMANCE OF HAWAII

As Michele chomped into the volcano, Bruce erupted with laughter. “Make sure it’s the chocolate, not the lava rock,” he warned of the latest amenity in their room at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu: a small black volcano spewing red sugar-paste fire and squatting in a field of crushed Oreos.

Call it part of the “Aloha experience” on the west side of the Big Island – officially, Hawaii Island – where the resort’s tropical paradise is flanked by volcanic crags and blue Pacific serenity.

Surf’s not up, but neither are temperatures, which average 85 in summer and 78 – brrrrr! – in winter. Forget glories of seasonal changes and embrace the mellow, sometimes hippie-haven vibe of Hawaii’s largest island. It’s home to just 150,000, with no traffic jams, unless you count dolphins and sea turtles.

Even nearby Kona airport is gorgeous – Balinese roof-topped and open-air. Also relaxed is the dress code. The hotel’s general manager wears shorts and untucked Hawaiian shirts to cocktails. Signs almost could read: No shorts, no flip-flops, no service!

Michele and Bruce arrived as two Hawaiian virgins sacrificing their wallets to the gods of idyllic chill-outs – and promptly understood why Hawaii is heaven.

MICHELE: Type-A moi relaxed so fast. An hour after getting lei’d (sorry!), we dozed in clamshell daybeds overlooking soothing surf. I could get used to that!
BRUCE: Talk about ambiance. No buildings rise above palms. No touristy shops push postcards or T-shirts. Even the tiny laundry trucks are camouflaged with flora illustrations – I almost bumped into one!

MICHELE: Upon waking my first thought was, “Another day in paradise!”
BRUCE: And another morning of gorging. We thrived on the breakfast buffet of pineapple, papaya, blackberries, scones and a daily twist on eggs Benedict, while watching others work it off paddle-surfing.

MICHELE: Then came our toughest decision: which pool, chaise longue or cabana we’d hit.
BRUCE: Being skittish grownups, we skipped the family-friendly whopper pool – the Sea Shell – and resisted the natural tropical fish-filled King’s Pond…

MICHELE: Saltwater, hair highlights – a wacko combo!
BRUCE: …but loved the placid, heated Beach Tree and adults-only Palm Grove, with its sunken bar at pool’s edge.

MICHELE: I HAD to belly up to that bar for an umbrella drink, as on our honeymoon!
BRUCE: Yet it wasn’t all sloth. I learned the hippy hippy shake to hula at the Four Seasons’’ Cultural Center. Sans grass skirt – which would have been a drag.

My highlight was caravaning across the island in a jeep behind Four Seasons’ chef Jim Babian to tour Wailea Agriculture Group’s farm, just north of Hilo.

MICHELE: But your hula hips didn’t lie: an R-worthy performance.

BRUCE: And though we skipped the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course – except the view – I canoed. No canoodling, since you skipped out. But I almost dated a dolphin who swam up so close.

MICHELE: Poor me, I was stuck at a pool watching nannies chase their Burberry- and Missoni-clad charges. (Didn’t spot any celebs – though Glee’s Lea Michelle, Mariska Hargitay and Bill Gates are regulars.) I felt like a star, as I savored an alfresco massage at Hawaii’s top-rated spa, then napped with a waterfall at
my feet.

BRUCE: Life’s hard. But I also loved little things, like the Surf Shack out of Hannah Montana with its shakes and smoothies.

MICHELE: I’m more high-maintenance. My highlight was caravaning across the island in a jeep behind Four Seasons’ chef Jim Babian to tour Wailea Agriculture Group’s farm, just north of Hilo. We wheeled through five climate zones, from jagged inky volcanic boulders (with sun-bleached pebble eco-graffiti) and arid Australian savanna to rolling Irish meadows, towering tropical rainforests and finally the coast.
Arriving after two hours, marketing director Ciro Tacinelli quipped, “Well, time to go!” Fortunately we didn’t. Babian whipped up an outdoor family-style feast of lime, lychees, nutmeg and hearts of palm – all grown on the farm. We returned to another gorgeous spread, aglow in the resort’s gorgeous sunset. We’d marvel, click our iPhones and get results that’d impress even Ansel Adams. “It calms my soul just to look!” a friend later raved.
I know I breathed deeper and slept better than ever – once we unplugged the room’s rattling fridge.

BRUCE: I wish I could bottle Hawaii and drink it each day, especially the gentle yet fervent “island spirit” – a breezy calm that removes you from rat-race woes.

MICHELE: It didn’t hurt that the Four Seasons took care of our every need, even giving us a flashlight, book light, sunscreen, toaster and umbrella we never needed (with only 10 inches rainfall yearly). No need to pack. For sure, we’ll be back!

LEARN MORE
• Four Seasons: www.fourseasons.com/hualalai
• Also Hawaii Tourism: www.gohawaii.com/big-island
• Wailea Agriculture Group: waileaag.com

By Michele Meyer & Bruce Westbrook
Photography provided by
Four Seasons Image Library

Tasmania

If the name “Tasmania” conjures up images of unexplored wilderness and whirling cartoon devils, think again. While it’s true that Australia’s only island state is a nature-lover’s paradise (once part of Antarctica, the dramatic landscape features everything from white sand beaches to mountains and rainforests, plus plenty of rare plant and animal life), the area is also home to growing cities, gourmet dining and a noted wine industry. Instead of just heading out to the national parks, visitors today are sticking around towns like Hobart to stroll through galleries and boutiques, sip drinks overlooking the harbor and get blown away at MONA, one of the most unique museums in the world. About a one-hour flight from Melbourne, and less than two hours from Sydney, Tasmania offers culture and history backed by stunning views.
HobartA bustling whaling and port town in the 1800s, capital city Hobart is today a vibrant city with a surprising amount of cool among the colonial charm. The 19th-century sandstone warehouses have been transformed into chic galleries and cafes, many overlooking the still-in-use harbor. There are leafy parks to stroll through, markets to browse and, if you’re lucky, one of the famous festivals taking place. (For a calendar of festivals, which celebrate everything from music, food and art to the island’s Antarctic connections, visit www.discovertasmania.com.)
Check-in: In 2002, two low-slung 19th-century former jam factories along the waterfront were transformed into The Henry Jones Art Hotel, a funky, friendly place that’s also considered one of the most notable hotels in Australia. The 56 rooms boast reminders of the building’s history – from exposed beams and brickwork in some to a glass-encased original stone wall in some of the suites – along with over 300 rotating pieces of contemporary art by Tasmanian artists. The bar serves local wine and beer (try a bottle of Moo Brew, from just outside town) to the sounds of live music, and the restaurant highlights local produce in its refined menus. www.thehenryjones.com
What to DoFrom the Henry Jones, it’s a short, sunny stroll along the piers to the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, where the excellent exhibits shed light on the region’s environmental history, the indigenous Aboriginal culture and the colonial-era art scene. The trendy Salamanca neighborhood, famous for its 300-plus stall Saturday market, is also nearby. The shops and galleries here are brimming with locally made artisan furnishings, ceramic and glassware, handicrafts, soft woolens. Pop into Wursthaus Kitchen, named one of the top gourmet stores in Australia, to pick up treats like Tasmanian white truffles, local cheeses and terrines for a picnic on Mount Wellington or at one of the vineyards in the Coal River Valley. Above all, don’t miss a visit to MONA, the recently opened high-tech Museum of Old and New Art perched on a point outside of town. (Direct ferries are available from the piers.) Visitors from all over the world are making trips here just to explore the acres of paintings, installations, video art, antiquities and more; then enjoy the on-site working vineyards, restaurants and great lawn strewn with bean bags. www.mona.net.au
FreyCinet PeninsulaFor a taste of Tasmania’s stunning natural wonders, head to the Freycinet Peninsula on the island’s east coast, about two and a half hours from Hobart. There you’ll find pink granite mountains, sandy dunes, a world-famous beach and plenty of exotic marine and bird life – plus one of Australia’s newest luxury hotels.
Check-inOpened in June 2010, the 20-suite Saffire Freycinet takes “all-inclusive” to a whole new level. Modern and organic, with a curved wood beam roof and floor-to-ceiling views of the Hazards Mountains and Great Oyster Bay from nearly every spot, the dramatic resort aims to provide the ultimate getaway with package rates that include gourmet meals (including multi-course tasting menus that change daily), nightly pre-dinner drinks, spa credits and a mini-bar that’s regularly replenished with bottles of wine and high-end snacks. Guests can also choose from a list of included activities, like vineyard tours, guided walks and a trip to a working oyster farm (complete with fresh samples and Champagne), or explore the nearby national park on their own with a hike to picture-perfect Wineglass Bay. Worth the extra price is a thrilling boat ride past some of the area’s most dramatic scenery – including, fingers crossed, some up-close whale and seal sightings. www.saffire-freycinet.com.au
Getting ThereWith flight times hovering around 15 and a half hours, Qantas Airlines’ new flights between Sydney and Dallas-Fort Worth are among the longest offered on 747s in the world, but don’t let that put you off – thanks to Qantas’ legendary on-board service, the trip goes by in a flash. Economy travelers enjoy ergonomic seats with extra lumbar support, frequent meal and snack service, and personal TVs with hundreds of hours of entertainment. Upgrade to Premium Economy for wider seats, in-seat laptop power and Business-class touches like pre-flight champagne and noise-canceling headphones. Go for the full Business Class and it’s a world of Skybed seats, complimentary pyjamas, multi-course meals and priority airport lanes. In all classes, though, travelers are treated to genuinely friendly, attentive service – which, these days, is a perk in itself. www.qantas.com

By Sandra Ramani
Photography provided by The Brandman Agency

Paris
La Baule
(Two Sides of Historic French Hotels)

France has no shortage of historic hotels, from family-run inns to grand dame icons that have hosted generations of regulars. On a recent trip over the Atlantic, we checked in to two Gallic spots that offer different perspectives on what makes a hotel “historic.” One is a brand-new five-star set in a former Bonaparte residence; the other, a longtime favorite that helped pioneer the concept of seaside retreat. Together, they make for the perfect town-and-country experience for travelers who like a little backstory with their morning croissant.
 
The Shangri-La, Paris
Back in 1891, Prince Roland Bonaparte—grand-nephew to Napoleon—built his family home on a prime piece of land in Paris’ chic 16th arrondissment, near the Seine river and overlooking the Eiffel Tower. The opulent palace featured a mix of 17th- and 19th-century touches, from an elaborate carved façade and ornate gate to a vaulted ceiling emblazoned with zodiac symbols and a dramatic “Stairway of Honor” made from brass and forged steel. For years, the house buzzed with activity, as the cultured Prince was a key player in Paris’ academic, scientific and artistic communities. After his death, the palace was turned into apartments, then office space, until Shangri-La Hotels picked it up in 2006.
 
After years of meticulous restoration work, the 81-room Shangri-La Paris opened to guests in December 2010. The first thing the Hong Kong-based hotel group had done when it bought the building was to register it as a historical landmark, so it’s no surprise that the hotel honors the integrity of the original palace. Past the impressive all-marble, dome-topped entryway, you’ll find original wood floors, stained glass windows and hand-carved mahogany panels, plus that famous staircase. The top Suite Imperiale is set in Prince Roland’s
former apartments, and boasts beamed ceilings, decorative carvings and period furnishings.
 
While history and elegance are an integral part of the hotel, the place also offers all the must-haves for modern luxury travelers—as well as some first-in-Paris touches that have made it a hotspot with locals. Forty percent of the hotel’s rooms and 60 percent of its suites feature sweeping Eiffel Tower views (sometimes even from the bathtub!); many also have terraces to up the romance factor, while all have gorgeous custom furnishings, heated bathroom floors, rainfall showers and free Wi-Fi. The sexy lobby Le Bar, designed to evoke a posh tent Napoleon may have taken on a campaign to Egypt, has become a favorite for the creative cocktails that feature unique ingredients like wasabi, ginger or Szechuan pepper.
 On the dining front, the hotel is home to the gourmet L’Abeille, where Chef Phillippe Labbé serves a modern take on French classics in an ultra-refined setting. The gorgeous bi-level La Bauhinia lounge is the place for an East-meets-West all-day menu and a decadent afternoon tea (don’t miss the gravity-defying cakes), while Shang Palace is the first authentic, upscale Cantonese eatery in Paris. And the hotel has more in store, too: Next up is a spa and wellness center, with a 50-foot pool set in what were once Prince Roland’s stables.
www.shangri-la.com
 
Lucien-Barrier
Hotels, La Baule
A scenic three-hour train ride from Paris brings you to La Baule, a seaside town on France’s west coast, at the gateway to Brittany. La Baule was developed as an oceanside getaway in 1879, but it wasn’t until casino magnate Francois Andre brought his signature mix of luxury hotel/casino/sports facility to town in 1918 that its popularity really took off. Now known as Groupe Lucien Barriere, Andre’s company still oversees three properties in La Baule, including that original hotel, the Hermitage Barriere.
 
Boasting a distinctive Anglo-Norman façade, the hotel features over 200 Old World-style rooms, two heated saltwater pools, beach access and the poplar Eden Beach waterside restaurant, where signature dishes include fresh fish cooked in locally mined sea salt. From the Hermitage, it’s a short walk to the Tennis Country Club Barriere, built in 1928 and considered one of the loveliest tennis facilities in France, as well as to sister hotels, the Royal-Thalasso Barriere and the Castel Marie-Louise. The former is a true wellness resort, complete with doctor-overseen health programs and seaweed- and seawater-based clinical treatments, while the latter is a 32-room inn—set in an Edwardian-era manor—that’s known for its gourmet fine dining. Though each Barriere hotel is different, guests at each feel a palpable sense history—and that they are continuing the traditions of nearly a century’s worth of relaxation-seekers. www.lucienbarriere.com

By Sandra Ramani
Photography provided by
Premium PR Photos

MADRID/PORTO

Looking for a lively gourmet getaway? A joint trip to the InterContinental hotels in Madrid and Porto makes for the perfect food and wine travel pairing.
 

Madrid:
Spain may be in a financial crisis, but Madrid certainly hasn’t lost its appetite. On a trip to the capital last month, I sipped cava at one packed café after another, chatted with locals over three-hour lunches (with wine, of course) and watched in awe as restaurants continued to seat guests for dinner long past 10pm. The passion for good food and lively conversation lives on here, and luckily, Madrid is a place where you can indulge in both without breaking the bank.

Tapas Tour: Spain is famous for its tapas – small plates of hot or cold food made for sharing over drinks. (“Tapa” translates to “cover,” as historically customers were served a piece of ham or cheese to act as a lid for their drinks.) Tapas are not appetizers – you keep ordering them until you are full, or until you move on to the next bar – and in Madrid, there are some places that have been serving the same items for generations. At La Casa del Abuelo (www.lacasadelabuelo.es), which celebrated its 100th anniversary in 2006, the house specialties are shrimp, crab claws and prawns – served in many ways, including sizzling in garlic oil – paired with a glass of the semi-sweet house wine.  La Dolores (www.ladolores.es), a favorite since 1908, is loved for its duck ham, anchovies, mussels and thick slabs of cheese, all served with cold draft beer. For the always popular patatas bravas (potatoes topped with spicy sauce), head to Las Bravas, where the décor is modern but the food truly classic.
Gourmet Market: Located in the charming Chueca neighborhood, known for its indie shops and cafes, the recently revitalized San Anton Market (www.lacocinadesananton.com) takes food halls to a whole other level. On the first floor, you’ll still find the traditional market stalls hawking fresh veggies, meats and other grocery items, while on the second, a dozen or so chic counters serve small and mid-sized plates of everything from Italian and sushi to traditional Spanish meats – some for as low as one euro. Sample a little of everything – plus a glass of wine from the corner wine bar – or head up to the beautiful third floor restaurant and terrace, where you can order off a gourmet menu.

Where to Stay:  Located on one of Madrid’s main streets, a short walk from the Prado Museum and near the designer shops of Salamanca, the InterContinental Madrid is a perfect base from which to explore the city. Business and leisure travelers alike love the spacious, comfortable rooms (equipped with must-have comforts like Wi-Fi), while locals flock to the lovely El Jardin garden restaurant for its creative cuisine and famous Sunday brunch.  Since dining is a key part of the Madrid experience, it’s worth upgrading to a Club Level room at the hotel, which includes access to a private club lounge stocked all day with complimentary drinks and tapas-style snacks. www.intercontinental.com
 
Porto:
Located in northern Portugal, along the Douro River, Porto (also known as Oporto) is the second largest city in the country, one of the oldest in Europe and a designated UNESCO World Heritage Site for its wealth of stunning tile-covered buildings. As wine lovers know, Porto is also famous for its liquid gold – namely, award-winning red, white and port wines made from Douro Valley grapes. (Port wine is named for the city, and is its most famous export.) Charming and easy to navigate, Porto is a must-stop on any Iberian gourmet trail.

Book It:  Porto is booming with trendy drinking and dining spots, many of which are located in some creative re-purposed spaces.  New eatery Book is set in a former bookstore; menus are presented in-between the pages of old paperbacks, and food-themed quotes from famous authors are printed above the daily dishes. (The restaurant also sells beautiful handmade men’s leather shoes out of the bar area.) On nearby Galeria de Paris street, locals love the cafes, bars and restaurants – many serving affordable lunch buffets – set in converted warehouses and historic shops. Wander in and out of them for a peak at cool design touches, like mini Fiats or vintage guitars mounted on the walls. 

Douro Day Trip:  Just across the river from central Porto, you’ll find dozens of wineries from regional brands open daily for tastings. For an unforgettable wine experience, though, take a day trip to one of the vineyards in the Douro Valley, a historic region where wine was made as far back as Roman times. One of the most breathtaking  spots in the valley belongs to Quinta do Crasto, which makes excellent white, red and port wines (the red Reserve was named one of the top three wines in the world), as well as olive oils and jams. Check with the InterContinental’s Concierge to arrange a private winery visit and lunch overlooking the area’s distinctive terraced and vertical vineyards – and bring your swimsuit for a dip in the hilltop infinity pool. (www.quintadocrasto.pt)

Where to Stay:  The new InterContinental Palacios das Cardosa is situated right on Porto’s central Praça da Liberdade square, in a former 18th-century palace. Though the historic facade is original, inside you’ll find stunning, modern rooms featuring pillow-top beds, free Wi-Fi, flatscreen TVs and soaking tubs. There’s a bright glass-ceilinged restaurant (don’t miss the traditional Portuguese pastries, like custard tarts, at breakfast), a clubby bar and a spa featuring treatments using natural Pevonia products – plus special services that use Porto-inspired ingredients like spices, herbs and, of course, grapeseed and wine.  www.intercontinental.com

By Sandra Ramani | Photography provided by IHG Dihital Library

The Gourmet Peninsula

Jutting out into the Adriatic Sea, the Croatian peninsula Istria is making a name for itself as a gourmet paradise. Thanks to its lush topography and Mediterranean climate, travelers here can indulge in high-quality black and white truffles, fresh, innovate cuisine and excellent wines and olive oils – all at prices far less than traditional foodie favorites like France or Italy. (When Italian neighbors drive over the border to stock up on Istrian products, you know they have to be good.) Dotted with charming towns and picturesque beaches, Istria’s got all the ingredients for a delicious getaway.

 

 

• Historic Towns: The peninsula is full of lovely towns replete with original stone houses, twisty cobblestoned streets and even the odd castle or two. Though travelers typically make their base in larger towns, like seaside Rovinj and Novigrad, daytrips to these smaller spots are a popular pastime. In hilltop Motovun, site of a popular annual indie Film Festival, you can explore medieval walls and gates (some with Venetian carvings) and enjoy a coffee with sweeping views of the surrounding forest. Grožnjan, another hilltop town, is known for its art galleries and artisan workshops, while in charming Bale, the quirky Kamene Price bar/café (www.kameneprice.com) is the epicenter of the lively Open Jazz Fest.

 

• Delicious Detours: Between sunning on the beach and strolling the postcard-perfect towns, make sure to visit some of Istria’s palate-pleasing tourist attractions. If wine’s your thing, you’re in luck – the peninsula is home to several noted wineries turning out respected whites (the most popular local varietal is Malvasia), reds (we love the deep, bold Terans) and even a couple sparklings and sweet wines.

At picturesque Kabola (www.kabola.hr), you can enjoy a tour of the winery and a tasting that showcases their unique Amfora wine, an aromatic, richly colored white that’s created using ancient techniques. Along with all the established favorites, a number of young winemakers are also shaking up the scene—and producing award-winning bottles in the process. At Trapan (www.tapan.hr), Bruno Trapan is crafting fruity Malvasias and Chardonnays, along with an elegant Syrah, all of which can be experienced in his sleek new tasting room. At Piquentum, French-Croatian winemaker Dimitri Brecevic is generating buzz with his earthy Malvasia, juicy Refošk (a red varietal) and deep, complex Teran; email the winemaker directly (dimitri.brecevic@wanadoo.fr) to set up a visit or tasting.

 

The Mediterranean climate and soil that makes Istria so great for wines is also ideal for growing olives, resulting in some stellar olive oils. Many of the noted wineries also make their own oils. Meneghetti, for example, is known for both its refined wines and sophisticated oil blends (www.meneghetti.hr). One of the top places just for olive oil is family-run Ipsa, where the owners will take you through a lesson in how to properly taste oils, then let you experience their award-winning Bjelica and Frantoia blends (www.ipsa-maslinovaulja.hr).

 

Another of Istria’s star gourmet products is truffles; both black and white versions of the prized mushroom grow in the region’s fertile Mirna River valley. Truffles are such a signature ingredient here (and so abundant) that you’ll find them on nearly every menu, topping pastas and eggs, baked into breads and even flavoring ice creams. One of best places to experience the truffles’ diverse uses is with a tasting dinner at Restaurant Zigante (www.restaurantzigante.com), made famous when its owner found what went on to set the Guinness record for world’s biggest truffle back in 1999. Zigante also has shops all over the peninsula where you can pick up truffle-infused honey, tapenade, oil and more.

 

• Where to Eat: The quality of Istria’s products and culinary talent make it a prime place for dining. Standouts include Damir and Ornella in harbor town Novigrad, where the owner filets the fresh fish tableside, then adds a healthy topping of grated truffles. Though it can be a challenge to find, Toklarija – set in a converted olive mill – is well worth the hunt for its romantic atmosphere and top-notch “slow food” menu, which changes daily according to the whims of its chef-owner. At Restaurant Monte in resort town Rovinj, the modern, innovative cuisine is both flavorful and creatively presented in a fun setting.

 

• Where to Stay: Base yourself in charming Rovinj, which has a nice selection of dining, nightlife and shopping. Set just on the water, Hotel Monte Mulini is both stylish and comfortable, and boasts a noted restaurant (with a vast wine cellar) and a spa that incorporates Mediterranean herbs (www.montemulinihotel.com). Sleek and modern, with plenty of playful touches, the new Hotel Lone is Croatia’s first Design Hotel (www.lonehotel.com).

 

By Sandra Ramani | Photography provided by www.istria-gourmet.com

 

Esencia babymoon

 

As if it weren’t enough that some highly creative individual came up with the “push present,” another had to come up with the “Babymoon.” Being a first-time expectant mother I was never able to relate to either concept…until now.

 

A few years back I reviewed the picturesque 50-acre property that is Esencia located about an hour and half from the Cancun airport – and it has remained one of my favorite destinations in the world, hands down. First of all, there’s the easy flight from Houston to Cancun, which is usually pretty affordable. Next the property is flawless. There’s something enchanting about this place, which was once the private retreat of an Italian Duchess. It’s not hard to imagine her (I picture a woman like Diane von Furstenberg or Sofia Loren) in a long caftan from some faraway exotic destination wandering the paths down to the beach barefoot with a huge floppy hat.

The attention to detail is not only in the décor but also in the service and the staff. From the iPod docking stations loaded with an iPod with the perfect soundtrack for this place, to the winding paths with free-roaming, sun-bathing iguanas, leading to the villas, most of which feature private plunge pools beckoning you to take a dip with a cold Mexican lager.

Bright concrete white walls turn into end tables and the base for a cloudlike, equally white, covered bed providing some of the best sleep I can remember. (Which I really reminisce about now with a 9-week-old). Sectional, well-appointed lounge sofas carved out of the same white washed concrete are covered with plush white cushions and colorful throw pillows honoring various indigenous embroidery techniques of the region. A regular day on my babymoon consisted of early morning yoga facing the ocean followed by a few laps in the lap pool. Then on to a delicious breakfast of the kind you can only have in Mexico with fresh local fruit, eggs that are so fresh the yolks are orange and fresh juices made of watermelon, melon, orange or whatever fruit is featured that day. We were greeted daily by name, even recognized by some of the waitstaff who are still working there from our previous visit years earlier. A quick plunge in our private pool followed by a quick change into my swimsuit featuring my 6-month bump and a walk down to the beach to pick out our palapa for the day.

The beach is usually as calm as a swimming pool and just as crystal clear – it’s the perfect spot to enjoy some weightlessness. Now on to the second most important thing of the day – lunch! Esencia has a vast ceviche menu and we made it our duty to taste one every day! (Just in case you don’t know – the fish in ceviche starts out raw but gets cooked with the lime juice). If you are paranoid about eating ceviche, the fish tacos are heaven. With a full belly and a happy baby Pascual back- flipping, thanking me for lunch – we returned to our initial position of a beached whale basking in the warmth of the sun and breathing in the salty seaside air. Next on our to-do’s a prenatal couples massage.

 

 

 

Aroma spa is an organic spa that features ingredients indigenous to the area, most grown on site. The spa is surrounded by lush vegetation and herbs, many perfume the air and are used in the treatments. We were led through a series of easy yoga partner moves that stretched me out and massaged my achy back. The treatment ends with a warm cup of apple-spiced tea and we were off for a relaxing nap before dinner!

Sal y Fuego is the property’s delicious restaurant, satisfying my every craving. Inspired by Meso-American cuisine, Yucatán methods shine here. Fish wrapped in banana leaves and meat cooked in a pib (an earth oven) are not to be missed. Perfectly cooked rice and vegetables round out the dishes.

 

Although I needed nothing more than what Esencia had to offer for my 6-day stay, if you require activity there is more than enough to do and the concierge can coordinate anything. 20 minutes south is Playa del Carmen with fantastic restaurants, lounges, clubs and shopping; 20 minutes north are the ruins of Tulum. There are various cenotes (deep natural pits or sinkholes, resulting from the collapse of limestone bedrock that exposes groundwater underneath.) Cenotes were sometimes used by the ancient Mayans for sacrificial offerings (Wikipedia) and are a sight to be seen. You can snorkel or dive in them, or you can stick to the Caribbean.

 

Esencia – A Seaside Estate1.877.528.3490info@hotelesencia.comwww.hotelesencia.com

 

By Carla Valencia de Martinez

LOS CABOS YOU HAD ME AT HOLA

 

Los Cabos. The words alone conjure up images of cool, crystal clear waters, luxurious resorts, glorious relaxation, and for some, the perfect nightlife. But don’t be fooled, there’s much more to Los Cabos than meets the eye. Next time you visit, I suggest you venture out beyond The Tourist Corridor. You’ll be glad you did!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

My three-day adventure…

 

DIA UNO CHECK-IN AT VILLA DEL ARCO BEACH RESORT AND DESERT SPA

 

After a scenic drive I finally arrive at Villa del Arco Beach Resort and Grand Spa, a five-star, upscale resort located on the world-famous Médano Beach in Cabo San Lucas. The property is gorgeous and very budget-friendly. A luxurious suite awaits with a private balcony, marble floors and large, spa-like bathroom. The location is prime, only minutes away from all the action. Don’t forget to book an appointment at the Desert Spa; it’s amazing!

 

TRIP TO SAN JOSE DEL CABO

 

After a quick touch-up, Aldo, my super-friendly driver, picks me up to take me to San José del Cabo, located approximately eighteen miles to the east of Cabo San Lucas or “Cabo” as the locals call it. This quaint small town exhibits the best of traditional Mexico with its blocks of unhurried streets and graceful tree-covered sidewalks. With its scores of shops, galleries, fine restaurants, boutiques – and total absence of popular franchises – it still captures the essence of old Mexico. Every Thursday evening from November to June you can enjoy the famous Art Walk – a collaborative weekly event held by the galleries in San José del Cabo’s Art District. The equivalent to a sip and stroll here in Houston. Totally recommend!

 

For dinner I try out La Panga Antigua Restaurant and Bar, considered by many to be one of Cabo’s best restaurants. You can’t miss it: An ancient wooden panga (small skiff) hangs above the door. Tastefully decorated, La Panga has tables on a series of patios. Its atmosphere is cozy and very romantic, and the food is absolutely delicious. I recommend you try the assorted appetizer sampler.          So good!

 

DIA DOS WHALE WATCHING TOUR WITH CABO EXPEDITIONS

 

Few other places, if any, in the world provide the ability to see firsthand mother whales and their calves surfacing on the water in such abundant numbers as you can in this area of Mexico. When I find out our boat captain is Jose Luis a.k.a “The Whale Whisperer,” I am more than thrilled. We board our Zodiac and head out to the Sea of Cortez in search of the gentle giants.

 

My first encounter is with a gray whale and her calf – quite life changing to say the least. They are huge! Some even larger than our boat, but yet so gentle and majestic. It is an awe-inspiring sight to see them breach, which is when the whales leap from the water almost completely above the surface and slam their bodies creating a huge splash. Simply amazing!

 

DIA TRES

 

OUTBACK DESERT & CAMEL SAFARI WITH CABO ADVENTURES

 

After a quick, fun ride aboard a 4×4 Mercedes-Benz Unimog (acronym for the German “UNIversal-MOtor-Gerät, Gerät meaning machine or device) we arrive at a private, secluded and unspoiled ranch in the desert for a hike through Baja’s outback. Our guide, “Chicas” as he prefers to be called, is professional, knowledgeable and a real kick in the rear. He has us laughing the whole time. Chicas introduces us to the local flora and fauna as we descend through some narrow trails down the canyon. At the bottom we see what seems to be a dry riverbed where our Unimog awaited to take us to a deserted, private beach to partake on a camel ride even Lawrence of Arabia would be envious of. For lunch, we head up the hill to an enramada (a palm tree-roofed, open-sided shelter) where a true Mexican lunch waited. We learned to make corn tortillas and got a lesson on the art of tequila making…and sipping! Need I say more?

 

CABO DOLPHINS SIGNATURE SWIM

 

Nothing is more appetizing after a hike in the desert than a plunge into ice-cold water to frolic around with some of my favorite mammals in the world, dolphins. If you’ve never done it, you must! The Dolphin Signature Swim is perfect for those seeking close interaction with these divine creatures. It’s a smaller group setup and you get more time to play. So much fun!