THE ROMANCE OF HAWAII

As Michele chomped into the volcano, Bruce erupted with laughter. “Make sure it’s the chocolate, not the lava rock,” he warned of the latest amenity in their room at the Four Seasons Resort Hualalai at Historic Ka’upulehu: a small black volcano spewing red sugar-paste fire and squatting in a field of crushed Oreos.

Call it part of the “Aloha experience” on the west side of the Big Island – officially, Hawaii Island – where the resort’s tropical paradise is flanked by volcanic crags and blue Pacific serenity.

Surf’s not up, but neither are temperatures, which average 85 in summer and 78 – brrrrr! – in winter. Forget glories of seasonal changes and embrace the mellow, sometimes hippie-haven vibe of Hawaii’s largest island. It’s home to just 150,000, with no traffic jams, unless you count dolphins and sea turtles.

Even nearby Kona airport is gorgeous – Balinese roof-topped and open-air. Also relaxed is the dress code. The hotel’s general manager wears shorts and untucked Hawaiian shirts to cocktails. Signs almost could read: No shorts, no flip-flops, no service!

Michele and Bruce arrived as two Hawaiian virgins sacrificing their wallets to the gods of idyllic chill-outs – and promptly understood why Hawaii is heaven.

MICHELE: Type-A moi relaxed so fast. An hour after getting lei’d (sorry!), we dozed in clamshell daybeds overlooking soothing surf. I could get used to that!
BRUCE: Talk about ambiance. No buildings rise above palms. No touristy shops push postcards or T-shirts. Even the tiny laundry trucks are camouflaged with flora illustrations – I almost bumped into one!

MICHELE: Upon waking my first thought was, “Another day in paradise!”
BRUCE: And another morning of gorging. We thrived on the breakfast buffet of pineapple, papaya, blackberries, scones and a daily twist on eggs Benedict, while watching others work it off paddle-surfing.

MICHELE: Then came our toughest decision: which pool, chaise longue or cabana we’d hit.
BRUCE: Being skittish grownups, we skipped the family-friendly whopper pool – the Sea Shell – and resisted the natural tropical fish-filled King’s Pond…

MICHELE: Saltwater, hair highlights – a wacko combo!
BRUCE: …but loved the placid, heated Beach Tree and adults-only Palm Grove, with its sunken bar at pool’s edge.

MICHELE: I HAD to belly up to that bar for an umbrella drink, as on our honeymoon!
BRUCE: Yet it wasn’t all sloth. I learned the hippy hippy shake to hula at the Four Seasons’’ Cultural Center. Sans grass skirt – which would have been a drag.

My highlight was caravaning across the island in a jeep behind Four Seasons’ chef Jim Babian to tour Wailea Agriculture Group’s farm, just north of Hilo.

MICHELE: But your hula hips didn’t lie: an R-worthy performance.

BRUCE: And though we skipped the Jack Nicklaus-designed golf course – except the view – I canoed. No canoodling, since you skipped out. But I almost dated a dolphin who swam up so close.

MICHELE: Poor me, I was stuck at a pool watching nannies chase their Burberry- and Missoni-clad charges. (Didn’t spot any celebs – though Glee’s Lea Michelle, Mariska Hargitay and Bill Gates are regulars.) I felt like a star, as I savored an alfresco massage at Hawaii’s top-rated spa, then napped with a waterfall at
my feet.

BRUCE: Life’s hard. But I also loved little things, like the Surf Shack out of Hannah Montana with its shakes and smoothies.

MICHELE: I’m more high-maintenance. My highlight was caravaning across the island in a jeep behind Four Seasons’ chef Jim Babian to tour Wailea Agriculture Group’s farm, just north of Hilo. We wheeled through five climate zones, from jagged inky volcanic boulders (with sun-bleached pebble eco-graffiti) and arid Australian savanna to rolling Irish meadows, towering tropical rainforests and finally the coast.
Arriving after two hours, marketing director Ciro Tacinelli quipped, “Well, time to go!” Fortunately we didn’t. Babian whipped up an outdoor family-style feast of lime, lychees, nutmeg and hearts of palm – all grown on the farm. We returned to another gorgeous spread, aglow in the resort’s gorgeous sunset. We’d marvel, click our iPhones and get results that’d impress even Ansel Adams. “It calms my soul just to look!” a friend later raved.
I know I breathed deeper and slept better than ever – once we unplugged the room’s rattling fridge.

BRUCE: I wish I could bottle Hawaii and drink it each day, especially the gentle yet fervent “island spirit” – a breezy calm that removes you from rat-race woes.

MICHELE: It didn’t hurt that the Four Seasons took care of our every need, even giving us a flashlight, book light, sunscreen, toaster and umbrella we never needed (with only 10 inches rainfall yearly). No need to pack. For sure, we’ll be back!

LEARN MORE
• Four Seasons: www.fourseasons.com/hualalai
• Also Hawaii Tourism: www.gohawaii.com/big-island
• Wailea Agriculture Group: waileaag.com

By Michele Meyer & Bruce Westbrook
Photography provided by
Four Seasons Image Library

Tasmania

If the name “Tasmania” conjures up images of unexplored wilderness and whirling cartoon devils, think again. While it’s true that Australia’s only island state is a nature-lover’s paradise (once part of Antarctica, the dramatic landscape features everything from white sand beaches to mountains and rainforests, plus plenty of rare plant and animal life), the area is also home to growing cities, gourmet dining and a noted wine industry. Instead of just heading out to the national parks, visitors today are sticking around towns like Hobart to stroll through galleries and boutiques, sip drinks overlooking the harbor and get blown away at MONA, one of the most unique museums in the world. About a one-hour flight from Melbourne, and less than two hours from Sydney, Tasmania offers culture and history backed by stunning views.
HobartA bustling whaling and port town in the 1800s, capital city Hobart is today a vibrant city with a surprising amount of cool among the colonial charm. The 19th-century sandstone warehouses have been transformed into chic galleries and cafes, many overlooking the still-in-use harbor. There are leafy parks to stroll through, markets to browse and, if you’re lucky, one of the famous festivals taking place. (For a calendar of festivals, which celebrate everything from music, food and art to the island’s Antarctic connections, visit www.discovertasmania.com.)
Check-in: In 2002, two low-slung 19th-century former jam factories along the waterfront were transformed into The Henry Jones Art Hotel, a funky, friendly place that’s also considered one of the most notable hotels in Australia. The 56 rooms boast reminders of the building’s history – from exposed beams and brickwork in some to a glass-encased original stone wall in some of the suites – along with over 300 rotating pieces of contemporary art by Tasmanian artists. The bar serves local wine and beer (try a bottle of Moo Brew, from just outside town) to the sounds of live music, and the restaurant highlights local produce in its refined menus. www.thehenryjones.com
What to DoFrom the Henry Jones, it’s a short, sunny stroll along the piers to the Tasmanian Museum and Art Gallery, where the excellent exhibits shed light on the region’s environmental history, the indigenous Aboriginal culture and the colonial-era art scene. The trendy Salamanca neighborhood, famous for its 300-plus stall Saturday market, is also nearby. The shops and galleries here are brimming with locally made artisan furnishings, ceramic and glassware, handicrafts, soft woolens. Pop into Wursthaus Kitchen, named one of the top gourmet stores in Australia, to pick up treats like Tasmanian white truffles, local cheeses and terrines for a picnic on Mount Wellington or at one of the vineyards in the Coal River Valley. Above all, don’t miss a visit to MONA, the recently opened high-tech Museum of Old and New Art perched on a point outside of town. (Direct ferries are available from the piers.) Visitors from all over the world are making trips here just to explore the acres of paintings, installations, video art, antiquities and more; then enjoy the on-site working vineyards, restaurants and great lawn strewn with bean bags. www.mona.net.au
FreyCinet PeninsulaFor a taste of Tasmania’s stunning natural wonders, head to the Freycinet Peninsula on the island’s east coast, about two and a half hours from Hobart. There you’ll find pink granite mountains, sandy dunes, a world-famous beach and plenty of exotic marine and bird life – plus one of Australia’s newest luxury hotels.
Check-inOpened in June 2010, the 20-suite Saffire Freycinet takes “all-inclusive” to a whole new level. Modern and organic, with a curved wood beam roof and floor-to-ceiling views of the Hazards Mountains and Great Oyster Bay from nearly every spot, the dramatic resort aims to provide the ultimate getaway with package rates that include gourmet meals (including multi-course tasting menus that change daily), nightly pre-dinner drinks, spa credits and a mini-bar that’s regularly replenished with bottles of wine and high-end snacks. Guests can also choose from a list of included activities, like vineyard tours, guided walks and a trip to a working oyster farm (complete with fresh samples and Champagne), or explore the nearby national park on their own with a hike to picture-perfect Wineglass Bay. Worth the extra price is a thrilling boat ride past some of the area’s most dramatic scenery – including, fingers crossed, some up-close whale and seal sightings. www.saffire-freycinet.com.au
Getting ThereWith flight times hovering around 15 and a half hours, Qantas Airlines’ new flights between Sydney and Dallas-Fort Worth are among the longest offered on 747s in the world, but don’t let that put you off – thanks to Qantas’ legendary on-board service, the trip goes by in a flash. Economy travelers enjoy ergonomic seats with extra lumbar support, frequent meal and snack service, and personal TVs with hundreds of hours of entertainment. Upgrade to Premium Economy for wider seats, in-seat laptop power and Business-class touches like pre-flight champagne and noise-canceling headphones. Go for the full Business Class and it’s a world of Skybed seats, complimentary pyjamas, multi-course meals and priority airport lanes. In all classes, though, travelers are treated to genuinely friendly, attentive service – which, these days, is a perk in itself. www.qantas.com

By Sandra Ramani
Photography provided by The Brandman Agency