NEW RESTAURANTS | february 2012

JUICE GIRL
www.txjuicegirl.com or twitter.com/txjuicegirl
CUISINE JUICY GOODNESS + SMOOTHIES

My sister, an avid juicer, has turned me on to her juicing ways. It was only a matter of time before I realized all the benefits from juicing. Better nutrient intake, use of all your veggies and fruits, “eating” your daily serving required of said fruits and veggies, not to mention numerous health benefits. To our delight, one blindingly bright morning Juice Girl’s ray van was parked right outside our studios which also happens to be by Cura Yoga – one of her weekly stops. Gretchen the juice girl was pre-making the juices and serving three varieties. Juices are served in glass bottles and are typically chilled. (We recycle and return our glass bottles to be used again.) On our particular day we could choose from the Green Beast (my favorite! You can never get enough greens!), Apple’Ade and Punch. Apple’Ade is made from apples and lemon; Punch is OJ, pineapple and organic beet; while the Green Beast is made from organic apple, cucumber and celery. A bottle will cost you $4 cash or $4.30 credit. Yes, she takes credit! The juices are fresh and natural tasting. If you have never tasted homemade juice (not like the store bought stuff, peeps) then you might be in for a surprise. The flavor is not as sweet and there is a natural, leaf factor to it. It’s highly beneficial but can be an acquired taste. If you’re up for it, find Juice Girl and become an addict! Much like me, now the proud owner of my own JUICER!

THE BIRD & THE BEAR BISTRO 2810 WESTHEIMER
www.thebirdandthebearbistro.com | 713.528.2473

CUISINE AMERICAN
CHEF n/a
The space formerly known as Rickshaw, adjacent to Chuy’s, has been transformed into a bistro that is equally charming as its moniker. The space, even with walls painted black, is warm and inviting. Red touches, mirrors along said walls, gorgeous chandeliers and dangling antique furniture add a chic quirky vibe. One can only imagine the way the light bounces off the mirrors at night to add a glow to the room. For lunch, the dining room was all abuzz. The noise level is a bit lower across from the main dining room, off the bar area, although the space is smaller but cozy. On this particularly cold day, I started with a cup of Ouisie’s Gulf Coast seafood gumbo. This hearty gumbo comes full of vegetables (notably the okra and peppers), seafood chunks and a heap of rice. I was almost inclined to order another serving; one cup just wasn’t enough to enjoy this hot delight. For my entrée I had Ouisie’s Not Entirely Classic Caesar – romaine lettuce leaves are topped with jumbo lump crabmeat, Parmesan cheese, fried capers, drizzled in aioli and Caesar dressing, topped with croutons with a deviled egg and anchovy on the side. (If assembling your salad, i.e., cutting your romaine to bit-size pieces, is not your thing then I would steer clear.) It’s a tangy, light version with loads of fresh lump crab for each bite. With prices ranging from $5 for a cup of broth to $22 for the Caesar salad, be prepared to spend a bit to get a whole lot of Ouisie magic. A note: Valet parking is the most convenient (and might be the only) form of parking since the lot is for Chuy’s patrons. That being said, I can’t wait to go back for dinner with the girls!

LIBERTY KITCHEN+OYSTER BAR

1050 Studewood
www.libertykitchenoysterbar.com | 713.802.0533
CUISINE OYSTERS, CLAMS, SEAFOOD AND COMFORT FOOD!
CHEF LANCE FEGEN
After seeing a friend rave about Liberty Kitchen and seeing the hullabaloo about a certain food critic getting called out on their “door” (It’s actually in the bottom corner of the window, really small, not noticeable unless you read about it.) I had to check it out. Even before you get there you’ll notice their large sign, that rather than saying Liberty Kitchen says EAT in big bold red letters. You’ve reached the right place – and I like that sign regardless. (You’ll notice a review on yelp griping about the sign. Really, folks?! It’s a sign! You don’t eat it!) Parking is limited but at lunch we managed to score a spot right in the front so it’s not impossible. Once inside, the décor has an industrial touch with a rustic natural, casual vibe. It’s actually quite fitting for an oyster bar. I could see a captain throwing a few back at the bar after a long one. Lunch was busy but our service was still fast. I read about their gumbo and that’s exactly what I went with. A healthy portion of Creole crab gumbo, andouille, fried okra, rice, shrimp and fried oysters is served all together in a mild roux for $8. Now that I look at the menu with more time, I wish I’d added the extra blue crab meat for $4.50. Every bite had a piece of seafood so at no point was I just eating rice soup. It’s overflowing with ingredients and mildly spicy. Even my husband was jealous of my super gumbo. My husband went with the Rodeo Reuben. Spiced brisket, creamy malt slaw, cheddar, dill pickle and hedge hill ranch are served on pumpernickel bread. It was a big hearty sandwich but my gumbo beat his menu choice this time. Next time, oyster and gumbo it is.

By Beatrice Allen
RESTAURANT NEWS
email us at b.valencia@002mag.com

NEW RESTAURANTS | january 2012

ZAMMY’S MOBILE GRILL
find them on twitter @zammysmgrill
CUISINE A LITTLE BIT OF EVERYTHING

We had the pleasure and joy of having this mobile grill parked outside our offices for a week straight of goodness. This bight chartreuse/neon green (I’m horrible with colors, folks) kitchen on wheels is hard to miss. And honestly you shouldn’t miss out on this grill either. Offering everything from gyros, tacos, jalapeno poppers, quesadillas, to homemade kofta kabob, with this mobile grill you’ll find a favorite. We dream (and drool) over their fish tacos. They are the BOMB! Beer-battered, fried fish or shrimp is sandwiched in your choice of corn or flour tortillas, with a cabbage blend and your choice of habanero or ancho mayo. It’s simple but the frying is perfection and the outcome is pure – a crispy, tangy goodness. The best fish taco to come out of a truck hands down. It’s a hefty size so if you want, split it into two with the extra tortilla. Or just get two! Other notables from this truck are their falafel and the kofta kabob. Both are served inside a pita with lettuce, tomato and special sauce. Patience is a virtue with this truck as all orders are made the moment you order. The wait is definitely worth it!

BLACK FINN AMERICAN GRILLE
www.blackfinnhouston.com | 910 BAGBY ST. | 713.651.9550
CUISINE AMERICAN CLASSICS+REGIONAL FAVORITES
CHEF n/a

Photography by Jack Thompson


Driving around Midtown you might have noticed this rather expansive newcomer to the neighborhood. Not only does this space offer a dining room but also a grille room, saloon and patio, each offering individual comforts. The dining room outfitted in photography and work from local artists is ideal for family dinners and business. Looking for full dining but in a more relaxed bar-like setting then the Grille is for you, with booth and bar seating. Should you need to hide out in a booth and work, outlets and Wi-Fi is available. The Saloon merges social dining, sports and business. Check out the game while you dine anytime early or late, or use the space for happy hour or special events. The patio offers a comfortable setting no matter the weather (heaters for cold weather) with local musicians providing acoustic sets Friday and Saturday evening. Open until 2am and it’s dog friendly! No matter the mood, Black Finn offers four dining experiences to suit you. And your options don’t end with the particular rooms; their menu offers a vast array of delights from flatbread, burgers to enchiladas, filets, pastas. Whatever you are craving, you’ll find relief here. Their Ginger Tuna is a tangy, citrus delight of sushi grade ahi steak with stir-fry vegetables and a smashed rice cake with a citrus soy. Looking for a cure, the Hangover Burger combines ham, a fried egg, cheddar, lettuce, tomato and onion on top of a burger for fast “relief.” For indulgence, try the Iron Skillet Mac–N-Cheese Surf or Turf. A blend of cheeses, cavatappi pasta, bacon, tomatoes and toasted bread crumbs are mixed with your choice of lobster, red chili chicken or barbeque pulled pork. For a dining experience catered to your mood and need, Black Finn has it all.

LOCAL FOODS www.houstonlocalfoods.com
2424 DUNSTAN | 713.521.7800
CUISINE slads, soupd, sandwiches w/ local ingredients
CHEF N/A

Photography by Jack Thompson


Brought to you by neighbor Benjy’s, this counter-style service spot woos you with locally sourced fare with a flair for quality as said neighbor. The location that used to call Antone’s home (and has kept their name in the concrete at the entrance) has been transformed into a clean, industrial haven. Green and blue dot the mostly white space with metal touches. An array of white light fixtures hang above a wall dotted with banquettes. It might be kismet that their menu flows nicely with the décor. Their menu comprised of sandwiches, soups, salads and sides offers light options with a couple more substantial items (hello, crispy chicken sandwich with buttermilk dressing) thrown in. Sandwiches come with two sides or a cup of soup. This menu is ideal for lunch or those looking for a meal that is neither overdone nor overly dressed. We stopped in for lunch and, while the area across the street is under construction, there is still plenty of parking, which is always a perk in the Village. I suspect the lot will be a lot tougher to maneuver once word spreads about Local. After checking out the menu, I went with the Gulf shrimp and blue crab sandwich with green goddess dressing and the avocado soup. The avocado soup also features of potato and leek. I’ll warn you on the “cup.” Let’s just say , if I got a cup, I don’t want to know what a bowl is! It’s more like a large, bulbous cup. I can’t complain though because this soup was so awesome, I was DELIGHTED to have leftovers. A piping hot green bisque-like soup is topped with some of their homemade chips. It’s a beautiful blend of all three components with not one being overly obvious. My sandwich came out on this toasty mini-baguette type bread, full of crap, shrimp, shredded lettuce, a bit of pickled red onion, all dressed in a subtle green goddess dressing. I felt like I was indulging even though in reality my meal was quite light. And for this locally sourced deliciousness, that was a plentiful serving and exceptional quality at a mere $12. I’d say that is a steal.

By Beatrice Allen

RESTAURANT NEWS
email us at
b.valencia@002mag.com

NEW RESTAURANTS | december 2011


TEXAS TAMALE CO.
www.texastamale.com
3340 FOUNTAINVIEW | 713.953.9770
CUISINE mexican
This little shop located off Fountainview has actually been operating since the late ’80s. More of a to-go shop, the Mexican Deli specializes in tamales and puts out 100-300 breakfast tacos each morning. Should you stay and eat, your option is one of three tables. We received our tamales and tacos in a cute Styrofoam cooler to keep them warm on the go. The cooler has their logo on one side and the saying “Mi Masa es su Masa” (masa = corn dough) on the other. So clever. Their tamales are made with vegetable shortening rather than lard making this healthier version not only delicious but better for your heart. They are small in size so it’s easy to try various tamales. The chicken version is shredded chicken in a red sauce packed into a tamale with that delicious masa flavor. They also offer beef, pork, spinach and black bean. The breakfast tacos are the same. A flour tortilla bursting with egg and your choice of potato, chorizo, sausage, bacon and numerous other fillings start at…$1.39! Breakfast tacos are served from 7-10:30am while supplies last. Make it a rounded out meal with some of their queso, beans or rice. Looking for a good Mexican meal at a great price, this Mexican Deli offers that and more. You can place orders for tamales for your holiday parties or give them as a present. Check out their website for more gift ideas for that homesick Texan.


PINEWOOD CAFE
www.pinewoodcafe.com
CUISINE AMERICAN
Located in Hermann Park in front of the pond is this little café. With floor to ceiling windows, even if you can’t score a patio table the view is magnificent and you can watch the paddle boats. Counter-style ordering and high tables with stool seating round out the interior décor thus far. We had a beautiful cool day for our lunch visit that found us sitting at one of the tables. Kids and adults will cheer for their build your own grilled cheese or burger menu. We experimented with rye bread, gouda cheese, shrimp, avocado, tomato and sprouts, as well as a French loaf with cheddar, mushrooms and jalapeños, and a sweet sourdough with Velveeta and tomatoes. With 6 different breads, 8 cheeses, 7 proteins and 6 add-ons, your possibilities are almost endless! And if you don’t like your combo, well, you only have yourself to blame. One thing you will have no complaints on is their bread. From a local bakery, all the options are standouts. Should you build your own burger, you can choose from either an 8oz Angus beef or 8oz grilled chicken with your choice of veggies on said bakery bun with cheese or bacon as add-ons. Not on the menu but amazing is the Olivia burger. It’s an 8oz Angus burger with havarti cheese, caramelized onions and mushrooms. The flavors are so buttery and delicious together. No condiments required with this baby! Another notable was the Texas wrap with flank steak. The steak is marinated (daily) in pineapple juice and yellow curry, then it’s wrapped with lettuce, pico de gallo and jalapeño in a spicy cilantro dressing. The flavor of the steak and dressing is sweet but savory. If a good, personalized meal is what you’re after, Pinewood Café has options for you.


CHAMA GAúcha www.chamagaucha.com
5865 Westheimer RD. | 713.244.9500
CUISINE brazilian steakhouse
Chama, meaning “flame” in Portuguese, is the essence of an authentic Brazilian steakhouse. The “flame” also describes the passion the gauchos, Brazilian cowboys, have for their culture and tradition. This same passion is found in the food and service at this steakhouse. From the moment you are seated to the moment you leave, the service is impeccable. We not only had our waitress keeping an eye on our table but every other waiter that walks by, if he sees the need for something, will bring it or do it. It’s like having ten waiters. I’ve never experienced that kind of service anywhere. For lunch, around $20, you can eat from their expansive salad bar area that offers already mixed salads, build-your-own, vegetables, cheese, bread, cured meats, a Brazilian black bean soup and rice. Once you are ready for the meats, a little card on your table (one side red for stop, the other green for go) is your way of letting their gauchos know. A parade of 15 cuts starts. Everything from filet mignon, top sirloin, ribeye, ribs, chicken, lamb and pork are available at a limitless amount. Should you need a break, just flip your card to the red side. It’s no wonder all eyes are on your table constantly. My favorite cut, aside from their filet, was the Fraldinha. It’s the bottom sirloin that is flavorful, lean and tender. The house specialty, Picanha, the prime cut of the sirloin, is also a standout. You can’t miss out on their homemade lemonade. The whole lemon is used for this fresh and frothy version. If you like to get your money’s worth, Chama Gaúcha is that and more. With impeccable service and succulent meat cuts at limitless amounts, you won’t be disappointed.

By Beatrice Allen

RESTAURANT NEWS
email us at b.valencia@002mag.com
6104 HermanN park dr. | 713.429.5238

NEW RESTAURANT | november 2011

SAMMY’S WILD GAME GRILL 713.868.1345
3715 WASHINGTON | www.sammyswildgamegrill.com
CUISINE SAUSAGE DOGS+BURGERS+SLIDERS

They are NOT kidding when they say wild game. Your options include but are not limited to, buffalo, venison, antelope, pheasant, etc. Not only do these meats raise the flavor factor but they are also high in protein and low in both carbohydrates and cholesterol. A perk in the battle of to burger or not to burger? Their gourmet burgers, sausage dogs and sandwiches are all- natural, free range as well. Located in the space that used to house Maui Wowi off Washington also means you can get your order to go due to the previously existing drive-thru window. Counter-style ordering with bar height tables and some banquet seating is inside. The patio provides more seating should the weather permit. TVs are also located inside for game viewing PLUS a FULL bar. Being that this is a wild game grill, various game references are noted throughout. I tried their buffalo sausage dog with fresh onions and pickle relish. They offer a variety of toppings aside from those. From their sauce selection, I went with their Habanero ketchup on the side. The meat is definitely gamey but past that, it is tender and hearty with much more flavor than I expected. The soft pretzel bun concept (on burgers too) is a hit! Their sweet potato fries are the most crisp I’ve had in a sweet potato version. Sammy’s Wild Game Grill is just what Houston needs: new twists to old favorite classics that will entice customers to check it out.

FELIX 55 www.felix55.com
5510 MORNINGSIDE, No. 120 | 713.590.0610
CUISINE AMERICAN/ GLOBAL INFLUENCE
CHEF MICHAEL KRAMER

Sandwiched in between D’Amico Italian Market and Baker’s St. Pub is where you’ll find this delightful venture. Their expansive patio even boasts swings for certain tables and a section of upholstered cushion seating. Chef Michael Kramer, previously from Voice and Tasting Room City Centre, is behind their menu. We started with the ceviche and truffle fries to share while we looked over the entrées. For lunch, they offer an array of salad, sandwiches, flatbreads and, should one feel extra hungry, some large plates. The ceviche with leche de tigre, cilantro, lime and tortillas chips was fresh, full of citrus flavors with little bits of orange mixed in a subtle version of leche de tigre. Their truffle fries are a balanced blend of parmesan cheese, sprinkled bits of parsley, sea salt and just a touch of truffle. Truffle can be overwhelming when overused but they manage just the right amount for a salty decadent snack. Dare I say, their fries sans truffle rival a certain double arches’ version. For lunch I did the half sandwich and soup combo. I ordered half a Turkey Panini with garlic aioli, tomato confit and Swiss cheese with a cup of their mushroom soup. My panini was crunchy, full of turkey, gooey cheese – and a half is ideal for lunch. Paired with the mushroom soup that is topped with crushed hazelnuts, truffle goat cheese and porcini powder, my lunch made for a hearty meal suitable for colder weather. After seeing a flatbread being served we couldn’t resist and ordered their Prosciutto one with half left meatless. This sizable portion could be a meal for one hungry patron or great as a starter to share. A crispy, thin crust is layered with ovaline mozzarella, garlic and arugula. It’s delish! For dessert, don’t pass up their gooey chocolate cake served with espresso-infused anglaise and caramel ice cream. It takes a bit to make, so let your server know early.

FUEL KITCHEN+HEALTH BAR www.fuelhealthbar.com
1005 WAUGH DR. | 713.528.3835
CUISINE HEALTHY MEALS
CHEF N/A

Fuel Kitchen located conveniently within reach of FIT gym, in the shopping center near Pei Wei, is set on helping you lose body fat. By packaging all their healthy meals in separate containers it not only lets you personalize your meal but also control the portion. Not to mention this form of packaging is vegetarian, pescaterian and vegan friendly. By separate, I mean protein packaged alone in a container, veggie in another container and starch in its own container. No more meals where a piece of chicken is on top of rice with some vegetables snuck in the remaining space. You can CHOOSE if you even want the rice or prefer just the veggies. If packaged food isn’t your thing, they have a salad and wrap bar to either order one of their menu items or build your own salad or wrap. All their food choices are carefully monitored to ensure each package has an accurate count of calories, fat, etc. They are trying to help you burn fat after all and consistency is key. For lunch, I picked up a 4oz grilled lemon chicken, steamed green beans with caramelized shallots and brown rice with sesame and scallions. The chicken portion was perfect, and after heating up in the microwave, surprisingly tender and juicy with great lemon and grill flavor still there. They were genius in leaving the green beans a bit crispy so they wouldn’t mush with reheating making for perfect green beans straight from the microwave. Nothing is worse then overcooked vegetables. These were awesome! My brown rice serving was plentiful with the sesame and scallions adding just enough flavor to take away the “healthy brown rice factor.” Overall, the staff is incredibly knowledgeable (and fit) and they do an excellent job at squashing the healthy food is flavorless stigma. Their “fuel” does a body good.

By Beatrice Allen
RESTAURANT NEWS email us at b.valencia@002mag.com

NEW RESTAURANT | october 2011


LUCHI AND JOEYS twitter:@luchiandjoeys
1002 WASHINGTON | facebook: luchiandjoeys
CUISINE tacos, tortas, burgers and more
Houston’s newest food truck is hitting the pavement serving up tacos, tortas, burgers and more. Located in a trailer across the street from the city permits building, this is your chance to taste their goods before they move into their second forever home in that same building. Their other location is in the tunnels downtown. The staff in the yellow and orange trailer is as pleasant as they are efficient. They guided me toward the items to taste. Among those in my order were their Gringa, Baja and Alambra tacos and a Sidral (apple juice soda) to wash it all down. The Gringa was full of beef, cilantro, onions, mushrooms and white cheese while the Gringa was more of a pure Taco al pastor made from pork lion, with cilantro, onions and pineapple slices. The Baja was their fish taco with cole slaw, mango, pico de gallo, cheese – all in a spicy mayo. My favorite is their version of the fish taco. Nothing but grilled fish is smothered in spicy mayo, a bit of cheese and pico and mango, all warm and melty into each other in a corn tortilla. It’s messy but incredibly flavorful. I love the addition of mango and the grilled factor. Their Gringa is true al pastor style. This is the kind of taco you find on the streets in Mexico, just a bit bigger though. All tacos range from $2.50 to $3.50. To wash it all down they have real Mexican Cola, Sidral, Jarritos, water bottles, canned Coke, Sprite, 7Up, Crush and Hawaiian Punch plus bottled OJ. I went with a Mexican classic Sidral. It’s like apple juice plus carbonation. The best! If you’re craving a yummy taco to go at a decent price this is your trailer. Plus you can get real sugary delicious Coke! What’s not to love!

EL GRAN MALO www.elgranmalo.com
2307 Ella Blvd. | 832.767.3405
CUISINE GASTROCANTINA
CHEF menu by GREG LOWRY
El Gran Malo which translates to “the Big Bad” is the moniker not only for the establishment but it is also refers to their big bad wolf mascot. And, in a kismet way, can relate to their genius infusions of tequila. But first a few notables. There is no hostess to seat you. When they add cantina to the name, it literally has a cantina feel. Tables dot the inside, with TVs in plain view for game watching. The bar and kitchen are front and center when you walk in. This isn’t so much a restaurant as a bar that happens to serve some big bad food too. The main decoration in the space is a massive mural by local artist Kevin Hernandez that covers a back wall. With characters from loteria, un luchador, Zapata, Calaveras (skulls Day of the Dead style), la Virgen de Guadalupe and The Big Bad Wolf himself making an appearance, it’s hard not to imbibe tequila with all the Mexican Cantina references. A makeshift “altar” area holds various tequila jars in the infusion process. If you can infuse tequila with it, they are doing it here. Everything from jalapeno, cucumber, vanilla, cinnamon, plus combos is being fused with tequila. And the flavors are BIG. The jalapeno tequila margarita is a blend of citrus balanced out with the unexpected undertone of jalapeno. It provides just a slight bite at the end. The tequila is so well infused, I (and I’m horrible with tequila, the smell alone can make me cry) am able to sample them straight. Eureka! Other notables include the peach, cucumber mint and vanilla cinnamon and that’s what I got to taste! From the menu, their tamal al chipotle with chicken tinga, sweet chili chipotle sauce, crema fresca and avocado is a spicy delight. We were so excited we ordered seconds! Their snapper tacos, among their other stellar pairings of tacos, with seared snapper, pomegranate salsa, shaved cabbage, Serrano and micro cilantro packs big flavor with unexpected garnishes for Mexican tacos. The same innovative ideas are used in most dishes at El Gran Malo, taking everything that we know Mexican and putting twists on it. Big twists. El Gran Malo is serving big bad infused tequilas, margaritas and tacos from 4pm–12am Monday thru Sunday. There is no better day to check it out than today.

COPPA www.copparistorante.com
5555 WASHINGTON AVE. | 713.426.4260
CUISINE ITALIAN
CHEF BRANDI KEY
Catalan has been reborn as an Italian dream. Coppa transforms the location into a rustic space adorned in yellow and peacock blue touches. It’s romantic but industrial with a touch of quirky. The blues range from bright eye-catching cords on the light bulbs to deep jewel tones covering the bar stools, with massive mirrors in yellow ornate frames serving as accents. From the color-coordinated menu, we started with the Burratta salad, a ball of burratta is served with a mix of greens, campari tomato wedges and some beautiful thin cut coppa drizzled with olive oil and sprinkled with sea salt. The cheese was thick but nice and soft in the middle, perfect with the bit of greens, ripe tomato and a thin beautiful cured meat slice. I couldn’t pass up their mafalda and meatballs. Inchwide ribbons of pasta that resemble lasagna noodles, the mafalda are served with a meat marinara and three big, moist meatballs. It’s delicious down to the last bite. Their marinara is a perfect balance of savory with a hint of sweet, making an excellent foundation for this pasta and the pizza sauce. Speaking of pizza, we went with the adventurous Pizza Neapolitan. Tomato, garlic (cloves), black olive bits, pieces of white anchovy, Caladria chili and fresh oregano are layered on a thin crispy crust. The fresh oregano perfumes the pizza and is an excellent pairing with the salty anchovy and olives. It’s a light but flavorful, fresh pizza. Not ones to pass up dessert, my sister had previously tasted the lemon semifreddo and had to order it again. This lemon mousse-like (but less dense) half ice cream, half whipped cream concoction is like eating fluffy cream clouds. It’s light and heavenly. Served with a dollop of lemon custard on the side for mixing and candied pistachios, it’s a beautiful balance of sweet and salty. Dine in or dine out.

By Beatrice Allen

NEW RESTAURANT’S | august 2011

PHAMILY BITES

 

www.phamilybites.com

832.598.8746

Cuisine: vietnamese

This yellow truck is a party in a truck…that happens to serve some dynamite street food. We found them parked at Lizzard’s Pub on our particular visit on a Thursday night. Starting at 6pm until late they serve Vietnamese delights for those looking for dinner or looking to soak up their liquid dinner. Attached to the truck are various screens. One with the menu, one that plays music videos (a nice touch, might I add), another tells you if said establishment lets you take food inside and flashes other various ads and information, one more is a super cool camera. Yep, a camera. Push the big green button and take your own phamily portrait. Being that everyone loves a photo booth, this has to bring hours of enjoyment on late nights with boozy patrons. For dinner, we had the Bo Luc Lac aka the Shaken Filet Mignon Beef sandwich. Seeing that some patrons don’t speak Vietnamese, it’s super helpful their menu has descriptions patrons can say without massacring the language. Tender (extremely) filet mignon beef chunks are served on the perfect balance of crispy yet soft (you won’t lose a tooth biting into it) Vietnamese baguette, garnished with fresh Vietnamese mayo, pickled red onions (OH WOW!), fresh watercress greens, grilled jalapenos, all drizzled with salt, pepper and lemon juice. We added this great spicy garlic sauce and that combined with the flavors in that sandwich was phenomenal. It’s flavorful, it’s a decent serving and it really isn’t greasy truck food. It’s enlightening. For dessert, my curiosity was piqued with their Sesame Balls. Deep fried, crispy and chewy doughy sesame balls are filled with sweet (mashed) red beans and then drizzled with what seems to be condensed milk. I love sesame and I love beans so this was a no-brainer. These are AMAZBALLS! The combo, as unusual as it sounds, works so well. It’s sweet, it’s salty and, best of all, I don’t feel too guilty eating them. The fry is done so nicely that it’s a perfect crisp with no trail of grease. This is one phamily you want to be a part of.

 

RELISH

www.relishhouston.com

3915 san FELIPE | 713.599.1960

CUISINE SIMPLE FOOD HOMEMADE W/FRESH INGREDIENTS

CHEF DUSTIN TEAGUE

 

This fine foods neighborhood market is starting a movement. A Slow Food movement that is. In response to fast food and a fast life, Relish is part of Slow Food USA, a global, grassroots organization whose mission is to bring back the pleasure in good, quality food that supports the local community while being conscious of the environment. This clean, bright shop with marble accents combined with metals and wood is reminiscent of a quaint European bistro or store that you’d peruse for hours taking in all the details. Located in the same shopping village as Ouisie’s and Cotton Club, chic is to be expected. Enamored with the décor itself, the food will have you delighted with this new concept. Sweets are displayed front and center of the counter right at eye level to entice. The brown butter rice krispie treats made with homemade marshmallows are THE best we’ve ever tried. They’re sweet and a bit salty, perfectly soft and crunchy. I dream of these sweet treats. A beautiful freshly made tart displayed on a wooden board still in its parchment paper looked divine and as if plucked right out of a foodie magazine. Next to these delights are the sides available for the day. The wild rice shrimp salad with snap peas and lemongrass vinaigrette is an Asian-inspired, cold, refreshing and healthy option to a bag of potato chips. The flavor is addictive. Worthy of NOT sharing. Looking for a stunner sandwich to match? The Cajun smoked turkey with bacon, lettuce, local beefsteak tomato and a creamy tomato aioli atop a Kaiser roll is UNFORGETTABLE! The quality of freshness in the sandwiches and sides is evident in every bite. It makes all the difference in having something so light and simple taste healthy and yet so flavorful. It’s exactly what a dining out experience should be. There is no compromise in quality of produce or product and the time it takes to make something the moment it’s ordered. It’s quality you can taste.

 

 

 

TONY MANDOLA’S

 

www.tonymandolas.com

1212 WAUGH | 713.528.3473

CUISINE TEXAS-SICILIAN KITCHEN

CHEF TONY MANDOLA

 

From miracle location to its bricks and mortar outpost, this restaurant is a lifelong dream manifested into reality. Balancing that precarious line of fine and casual dining, new décor is sprinkled with old local touches. Hence the good old shark clock that hangs on the wall. Patrons old and new, dressed to the nines and dressed in their golfing gear (casual), all convene in the same dining room, enjoying exceptional and renowned dishes from this local institution. With an expanded menu blending favorites with Italian and Latin influenced new items, making a decision is the hardest part. Should you not see an old favorite on the menu, rest assured if you ask your waiter, you shall receive. I was intrigued with the Italian and Latin influence with seafood so I dove in head first with their Damian oysters. This lighter version, compared to a Rockefeller, is still fried but topped with pico de gallo and a lime for squeezing. I’m obsessed with these oysters. I was conservative in only ordering four, because after eating two all I wanted was more! The flavors are simple but complement the fried oyster nicely. I couldn’t leave without tasting their invention, Mama’s Gumbo Pizza. I was apprehensive as to how they could make a roux a base for pizza without being soupy. The moment they brought this crispy, round pie topped with crab meat, all my worries went away. This creation blew my mind. The flavor of the roux with mozzarella, parmesan cheese and crab is a winning combo. It’s subtle, it’s surprisingly light, it’s a thin crispy crust even topped with all that deliciousness (no soggy or droopy slices), it’s a MUST TRY. Another great combo, the crawfish ravioli is a Cajun and Italian dream. Crawfish meat sits atop raviolis swimming in a buttery, rich cream. Their snapper decadent is just that: a decadent mound of blackened snapper, with blackened shrimp, oysters and jumbo lump crabmeat sautéed in a brown butter. I’m salivating as I type about this dining experience. If you have yet to make it in, do yourself a favor and pencil, no, Sharpie it in to your calendar.

 

 

 

By Beatrice Allen

 

NEW RESTAURANTS | july 2011

IT’S A WRAP!

 

 

Mobile Bistro- On the streets of H-Town!

Find their location on twitter.com/itsawraptruck or facebook.com/itsawraptruck

CUISINE GOURMET WRAPS

This orange Mobile Bistro is blazing the trails with worldly fusion-inspired wraps. On our particular visit they were parked in the Inversion Coffee House lot off Montrose. Being that they were using their lot, the only drinks you can purchase are at Inversion. Not a bad trade if you ask me. I got a delicious wrap and great iced coffee all in one stop. But in other situations they have water and sodas. For lunch we ordered the Bollywood and the Finding Nemo. The small comes on a flour tortilla and the large is served in flour tortilla/naan. My Bollywood contained chicken marinated in a subtle blend of Indian spices, sautéed tomato and onions, lettuce and cucumbers in a cilantro cream sauce (the fusion). The Finding Nemo had lightly blackened tilapia, red cabbage, lettuce, tomato and avocado and the same cilantro cream sauce. Although they had the same sauce the wraps tasted different due to the seasoning specific to each.Surprisingly clean, fresh and light, these wraps are perfect if you are heading back to the office or are looking for something on the non-greasy side. And we ate the large! You must also taste the Mac N’ Cheese balls although these are indulgent. It’s a fried ball of Mac N’ Cheese. What is there not to like! Look for It’s A Wrap on the streets near you!

 

ALTO PIZZERIA

 

 

www.avaalto.com

2800 Kirby Dr. | 713.386.6460

CUISINE ITALIAN

CHEF DEL GRANDE CONCEPT!

Located up the stairs from sister restaurant Ava, this pizzeria brings casual dining a grown-up attitude with beautiful décor and no-nonsense fare. TVs are mounted along the bar, one in the front dining area and one in the back dining area so no momentous sporting or news event is out of sight. On our visit we had a view of all three TVs above the bar plus the one in the front area. Our table sat four in these plush oversize orange and charcoal chairs at a glass top table. On our table was a pizza stand with a blue motif dish underneath with small servings of salt, pepper and red pepper flakes for garnishing dishes or better yet, dressing your pizza. We started with their Gulf shrimp fritto and the artichoke “fonduta.” The mini shrimp are fried perfectly and in a lighter batter than usual, served with a Chile sauce and a lime-based sauce for dipping.  The artichoke “fonduta” is like an artichoke and fondue marriage. Artichoke is served in a fontina and pecorino sauce topped with more cheese and sprinkled with a bit of red pepper. A cheese lover’s delight. Having shown up with full knowledge we would be eating pizza, I was waiting for the moment I could top it with an Arugula salad and nosh away. We did a little switch-a-roo on their Romaine salad for Arugula greens (all met nicely by the staff, I must say) and our craving was fulfilled. Our salad came dressed with Parmesan, lemon and extra virgin olive oil as would the Romaine version on the menu. We topped our hot, cheesy, out-of-the-massive-wood-burning oven Margherita pizza with our greens – and salad and entrée became one. Our pizza, layered in mozzarella and plump, bursting tomatoes and sprinkled with fresh basil, was a great serving size (fed 3 girls) and thin-crusted, leaving room for more pizza or (in our case) those sourdough doughnuts served with Nutella. Save room for these yummy, fluffy, sugar-covered dough balls. With or without the Nutella, and with a side of vanilla, their simplicity is delicious. If the boys must watch their games and the ladies want to watch too, here you can do it without the pub/bar setting (i.e., dark, not aesthetically pleasing) with gourmet fare.

 

BRASSERIE 19

 

 

www.brasserie19.com

1962 W. GRAY | 713.524.1919

CUISINE FRENCH

CHEF MICHAEL GASPARD

I’m kind of obsessed with this place, really. I wish I could be less infatuated with not only the décor, ambiance, and oh, the food – but I can’t. What can you expect from Clark Cooper Concepts other than a well thought out and developed concept. These are the guys behind Catalan (soon to be re-opened as Coppa) and Ibiza. Brasserie 19 really is unpretentious French food. The space reminds me of the typical Parisian café only cleaner: White marble countertops and tables sit atop iron bases and white wicker chairs beckon you to sit and have a cocktail. Hooks for purses and coats are thoughtfully placed throughout the space as well. The only thing not taken into consideration was the lack of sound absorption due to all the hard countertops and floors but they were working on a solution to deal with the noisiness. I could tell you more about the design, but there won’t be space for the food, so you’ll have to go. The mini baguette they serve on the tables with butter is the perfect accompaniment to whatever you order. From the lunch menu, the Maine Lobster club is divine. A generous portion of tender lobster sits atop toasted Texas toast with crunchy butter lettuce, tomato and bacon. The Bouchot Mussels will have you licking your fingers as you soak up the sauce with that aforementioned baguette, and they come with their perfect frites. From the dinner menu, I literally dream of the Grilled Octopus. Perfectly soft grilled octopus is served with potatoes and a delicious creamy sauce. Even if you aren’t a fan of octopus you will be after this dish. You can’t go wrong with any of the fish entrées. The halibut is divine as is the snapper. I’m not gonna lie, I’ve eaten here twice a day on more than one occasion and have yet to have a bad bite. Plus they have cotton candy as dessert….it’s not on the menu, but trust me, it’s the bomb.

 

NEW RESTAURANTS | june 2011

JUICY IN THE SKY

www.heightsashbury.com242 W. 19th St. | 713.992.9670

CUISINE JUICES+SMOOTHIE GOODNESS!

CHEF N/A

The Heights Ashbury Coffeehouse is a trifecta of goodness. The coffeehouse is home to Juicy in the Sky and serves bites from Radical Eats. All of which are new to me and my most exciting discovery to date. After being bit by the juicing bug, I started to do research on juice bars near my home and then this email appeared in my inbox announcing the opening of an All Natural Juice bar. It was kismet. On my visit I tried their signature Infra-red juice and their basic Maddie’s Comet smoothie. The Infra-red is a blend of carrot, celery, orange, beet and mixed greens. It comes out this fiery red color and is a delight. I think I finished almost the whole thing by the time I left. Maddie’s Comet smoothie is a blend of strawberry, banana and pineapple juice. A smooth, seamless refreshing beverage that will be a treat these warmer months. While there, we tried some of the vegan Radical Eats fare. I’m not vegan but I’m not opposed to eating like one. Their menu is evolving but you should be able to find their not to-be-missed tamales and tacos. We were blown away with their mild spinach and corn tamale. I was giddy for my homemade corn tortilla tacos filled with refried beans, mushrooms and avocado. It all has this amazing homemade flavor that I swear is like the tortillas I get in Mexico. They’re a must try. This place is a gem! The juice, the smoothies, the service is all pure joy. I’m so excited I can barely catch my breath when recommending it! And I have yet to try the coffee but I think I just found my excuse to go back…soon!

 

MAI’S

www.maishouston.com3403 MILAM ST. | 713.520.5300

CUISINE VIETNAMESE

CHEF MAI NGUYEN

Many of us were left without our favorite spring rolls when this Houston institution went up in flames a year ago. Recently, this beloved establishment re-opened to a throng of loyalists keeping watch on Twitter to be invited back for special soft openings. We couldn’t have been more excited to come back to this casual dining spot to find a rebirth of sorts. Gone are the mirror walls, cloth drapes and mismatched Formica top furniture. A beautiful expansive bar greets you at the entrance rather than a cash register. Booths and dark chairs and wood tabletops sit amid tranquil green, neutral hues. The menu has been condensed, and a specialty drink menu is now offered.  I started with a saketini and some shrimp spring rolls. Both impeccable in flavor. The rolls thankfully did NOT have that build-up of wrap that sometimes occurs in the bottom making an unappetizing glob. They were fresh, just prepared and as they should be. We also dined on their inventive Vietnamese fajitas, a phenomenal General Tso’s tofu and their famous garlic beef. Their fajita presentation leaves you questioning how to put this together but the staff is right there to show you how it works. A plate with fresh romaine leaves, cucumber, carrots, bean sprouts, mint and cilantro is served with a side of rice paper for wrapping. Your meat is served with fried onions, scallions and roasted peanuts over pressed vermicelli for filling.  You moisten the rice paper (essentially your tortilla) and then fill with the vegetables and meat, roll and eat. The combo with the mint and savory meat is a must. The tofu was our favorite by far. Tofu can be difficult but they have mastered the art of its preparation at Mai’s. It’s lightly battered and absorbs the sauce deliciously. The garlic beef with chunks of tender filet served with mounds of garlic, onion, bell pepper and jalapeno all atop lettuce and tomato in a vinaigrette dressing is a go-to classic. Their appearance may have changed but Mai’s fare is better than ever.

THE ROLLING HUNGER

 

www.therollinghunger.comFACEBOOK “rolling hunger” | 713.992.9670

CUISINE KOREAN MEETS MEXICAN W/A TOUCH OF VIETNAMESE

CHEF N/A

Food on wheels is taking the city by storm! In homage, we are including them in New Restaurants because – well, it’s new and it serves food. So what if it’s mobile! We had the amazing luck of having the Rolling Hunger stop right by our offices. This bright orange truck is hard to miss and you won’t want to after dining on their flavorful fare. Your choices are tacos, quesadillas or tostadas with beef, pork or chicken, Banh mi sandwich, Korean short ribs and Vietnamese egg rolls. Prices range from $2-6, and this mobile only accepts cash. They also have combos for the tacos that include a drink and other special fixings like pico de gallo. After perusing my options and asking for suggestions, I settled on their beef tacos and the chicken quesadillas. But in reality, I got to taste everything from the Banh mi to the egg rolls. My favorite thing was their beef tacos. The quality of beef and the flavor with the Korean slaw and a touch of their green sauce were awesome. It’s spicy and savory, it’s perfect to squash a craving, or even a light lunch. These are mini-tacos and even the quesadillas are a decent serving size so unless you decide to overindulge, making it through the day shouldn’t be a problem. The chicken quesadilla was a balance of meat and cheese in every bite. Beverages from water to sodas are on ice to quench your thirst and an array of sauces plus sriracha are there for dressing up your meal. And for a food truck meal, the greasy factor is minimal. The quality of meal you will receive from this food truck will have you reassessing what this movement is all about. It’s about getting quality dining to the masses at a decent price. Mission accomplished!

 

By Beatrice Allen

 

NEW RESTAURANTS | may 2011

SWEET

 

CITYCENTRE | 713.647.9338

 

www.sweethouston.com

 

CITYCENTRE | 713.647.9338

 

CUISINE CUPCAKES, MACARONS, COOKIES+BEVERAGES

 

CHEF N/A

 

SWEET

 

Located right across from Yardhouse, this quaint eco-friendly sweets and coffee shop is a welcome addition. Offering diners a refuge designed and put together by local artists with vintage furniture and wood fixtures plus glassware that are 100% recycled, the eco-awareness doesn’t end there: All packaging, cups, even the unbleached liners the cupcakes are baked in are recycled. Looking to indulge in dessert and feel good about it doesn’t get easier than this. With cupcakes like Red Velvet, Peanut Butter, Hummingbird, Raspberry and Nutella and macarons in lemon, vanilla, chocolate, pistachio, coffee and strawberry, deciding on your quantity of intake will be the hardest decision. We tried the chocolate on chocolate cupcake, the vanilla bean with vanilla cupcake and the vanilla, chocolate, pistachio and coffee macarons. I’m usually a vanilla cupcake gal but their chocolate is hands down much more exciting than vanilla bean. Neither components on the chocolate are too chocolatey. I could’ve gone without sharing but it was too good to keep to myself. The macarons are crunchy on the outside and chewy on the inside. I like the bite-size portion – easier to pop in your mouth. I found all the flavors subtle but delightful. Wash all these sweets down with your choice of coffee, tea, espresso or tapioca. If a sweet fix is what you’re looking for, SWEET has you covered.

 

THE TASTING ROOM

 

IMG_8686

 

www.tastingroomwines.com

 

CITYCENTRE | 281.822.1500

 

CUISINE AMERICAN/ITALIAN INFLUENCE

 

CHEF MICHAEL KRAMER

 

Under the helm of former Voice Executive Chef Michael Kramer, the quality of not only the food but also the service is enviable. The team is attentive, knowledgeable and, best of all, friendly. This location differs from the others in that you will see families dining alongside a girls’ night out and wine connoisseurs. It’s a blend that is unpretentious and relaxed. The food is also different. This location has a wood-burning oven for fresh pizzas and the menu is simple – to the point but impressive. We started with the Mushroom Risotto, Carpaccio Beef and Baby Beets, all expertly prepared and seasoned. Their pizzas are made in traditional Neapolitan style. With Chef Kramer and his team being trained under Master Pizzaiolos, they adhere to the rules of Vera pizza Napolentana or the truest form of Neapolitan pizza: thin crusts, with crispy, melty deliciousness throughout. We added arugula to the top of our Margherita pizza for some extra greens. With its roma tomato, ovoline mozzarella, basil, sea salt and olive oil, this classic is a delight. Truffle Parmesan Fries are a truffle lover’s dream. The smell alone is intoxicating – and blending the best of two worlds, fries and truffle, you can’t go wrong. Dessert cannot be skipped! Chocolate Budino is an unforgettable blend of sweet and savory. A light and fluffy chocolate pudding is topped with a dollop of espresso cream and then sprinkled with sea salt.  Their Vanilla Bean Cream Brulée is the quintessential preparation. This vanilla bean custard has an ideal burnt sugar crust that cracks beautifully when punctured with your spoon.  Their Zeppole is a kiddie indulgence. Ricotta donuts are served with a sprinkle of powdered sugar alongside a chocolate sauce for dipping. With just a hint of orange zest, this fun take on dessert has sophisticated notes that an adult palette will enjoy. Their innovative Enomatic® Wine Dispensing System is the only one of its kind in Houston. It can be self-serve or dispensed from the bar. Get a card, load it with funds and enjoy a taste of luxurious wines. It’s simple and genius! This location and food will have you reassessing which Tasting Room you enjoy the most.

 

TRATTORIA IL MULINO

 

IlMulino_119_20_21

 

www.ilmulino.com

 

IN THE NEW WESTIN HOUSTON MEMORIAL CITY | 832.358.0600

 

CUISINE FROM THE ABRUZZI REGION OF ITALY

 

CHEF MICHELLE MAZZA

 

The famous Trattoria Il Mulino out of New York’s West Village offers a casual, family-friendly experience in the Memorial Area. The area is already

 

a buzz thanks to the hospital expansion and the new Westin opening and Il Mulino is a perfect addition. The interior is light, airy and clean with a fantastic bar area and lounge ideal for one of their delicious specialty cocktails. From house-made Grappa using recipes handed down through the generations to their homemade Limoncello to the delish Testarrosa made with strawberries, basil, vodka, Grand Marnier and cranberry juice. The main restaurant space houses four private wine rooms which can make the main space larger or smaller depending on the how crowded it is. The first night we went the main space was all that was open and the ambiance was warm, cozy and intimate. But the second time several of the rooms were open to allow for more people and the experience was completely different! The versatility of the space is refreshing. The menu highlights classic Italian cuisine from the Abruzzi region of Italy while featuring local Texan products as well. Executive Chef Michele Mazza embraces the Abruzzi tradition of “la panarda,” a decadent feast sometimes lasting up to 24 hours in the old country. The pizzas are thin, crisp and bursting with flavor. And the Meat, Cheese and Olives plates are wonderfully presented with generous chunks of cheese and perfect cuts of mortadella, finocchinoa, speck, proscuito di parma, cacciatorini plus fat juicy olives! The big hitters are the Arancini Italian rice balls which are perfect, lightly fried rice balls with a burst of finely seasoned meat and marinara sauce in the middle. The meatballs with ricotta were all the rave, meriting a second and third order from our table. The carpaccios are perfection, as are the incredibly fresh and crisp salads. You cannot go wrong with any of the pastas and risotto. Everything is cooked to perfection here, from the simplicity of the Manicotti to the incredibly luxurious Risotto con Funghi. Crossover to the Dentice, which is the Seared Snapper, for a lighter yet filling entrée, or the Veal Milanese served with arugula, tomatoes and red onion is another clean, beautifully presented dish. The beauty of Il Mulino is in the simplicity and consistency of the dishes. Everything is prepared with clean, fresh ingredients so although you may leave feeling full thanks to the amazing menu and lack of self-control – you never feel like you’ve had an unhealthy meal.

 

New restaurant? email us at letters@002mag.com

 

NEW RESTAURANTS | april 2011

SPINDLETOP-HYATT REGENCY www.spindletophouston.com

 

1200 LOUISIANA ST. | 713.375.4775

 

SPINDLETOP

 

Spindletop

just remodeled - Photography by Taggart Sorensen

HYATT REGENCY www.spindletophouston.com

 

1200 LOUISIANA ST. | 713.375.4775

 

CUISINE SEAFOOD+MORE W/ SOUTHWESTERN FLAIR

 

CHEF JEAN MOYSAN

 

This Houston institution, having its doors closed since Hurricane Ike in 2008, has re-opened after a $1.4 million renovation. Located atop Downtown’s Hyatt Regency Hotel, the “Spindletop Express,” a glass-enclosed elevator takes you up 34 floors to the circular designed dining room. The glass-walled restaurant makes one turn every 45 minutes allowing you to view the skyline from every angle throughout your dining experience. On our particular dinner, we started and ended our meal at the same point, making an entire revolution. To start we had their Southwest crab cakes with chipotle remoulade and mango salsa. Plump and fresh, we almost couldn’t resist ordering another! For dinner I dined on a nice 5oz grilled filet with sweet peppers, torched Texas goat cheese in a shallot demi-sauce. My filet was cooked to medium rare and, should it not be correct, the service was prompt to the table to be sure it was cooked to my liking. The sweet peppers and silky goat cheese are a terrific complement to the filet. For dessert we slowly enjoyed a crème brulée and coffee while taking in our last moments of the amazing skyline view. If this still doesn’t convince you of just how special the only revolving restaurant we have in town is, maybe this will: It’s estimated that more than 1800 couples have become engaged at Spindletop since its opening in 1972. Start your milestones where tradition lives.

 

café express www.cafe-express.com

 

new menu items

new menu items

1422 west gray | 713.522.3100

 

CUISINE breakfAst!

 

CHEF greg martin

 

Unveiled on March 15th, this breakfast menu can contend with both their lunch and dinner options. I can’t lie – their breakfast is AWESOME! I have never been more excited to write about a tasting than I am about this. Breakfast, being the MOST IMPORTANT meal of the day, is my favorite. We started with a scrambled egg, queso and turkey sausage on ciabatta sandwich. Eggs and queso, another combo that has never occurred to me, is excellent together. The only other meat you’ll find on this breakfast menu is bacon. There is no beef sausage patty or links or ham. Second sandwich we tasted was a club breakfast sandwich. Scrambled eggs, turkey ham, bacon and Swiss are sandwiched in a buttery brioche bun. At the same time we tried their BLT breakfast style – scrambled eggs, lettuce, tomato, bacon and a swipe of mayo are served atop a whole-wheat brioche. It’s breakfast and veggies for breakfast with whole wheat. Mom would be proud! Their bread is a huge contributor to the tastiness of each sandwich. It’s fluffy and soft, making devouring them quite easy. If sandwiches aren’t your thing, they have hearty platters of eggs, turkey sausage, a bowl of fruit and a side or ciabatta. If you’re craving Mexican, try their version of migas. A scrambled egg and queso platter with corn strips atop served with a side of black beans, salsa and extra tortillas. It’s out of this world! And both platters are a hearty serving of food. Should you need a healthier version, all plates except for one (Americano frittata) are available with egg white substitute. If you are craving something sweet you CAN’T pass up the BEST French toast ever. I know that’s a bold statement but trust me.  Their French Quarter French Toast is French bread drenched in rich cream and topped with powdered sugar, fresh berries, glazed pecans and served with pecan praline syrup. It’s literally the perfect thickness of bread. It has this crust (almost fried) outside and a soft inside so there’s no soggy limp bread bites. It’s life-altering. Served from 7am-11am, look out for weekend brunch hopefully in the fall. If you go for lunch and you go for dinner, why wouldn’t you go to Café Express for breakfast? Makes all the sense in the world…

 

PONDICHERI

 

new

new

2800 Kirby@west ave. | 713.522.2022

 

CUISINE classic, home-style+street foods of india

 

CHEF anita jaisinghani

 

Indian food can be intimidating. Pondicheri banishes those notions, from not knowing how to pronounce the dishes to not being able to grasp just what you might be served. The knowledgeable crew is willing to explain or find out your every query. A casual vibe is carried out in the décor and the serving style of dishes. They pull off an industrial feel elegantly with bare concrete walls, exposed pipes, vintage bulbs in metal chandeliers, large metal work doors and exposed kitchen, all said to mimic that street feel. And the food intensifies the warmth, beginning through the nose when you walk in the door, with a scent of spices permeating the air. We tried a variety of dishes; our favorites begin with the “street starter” papdi chaat. It’s like an Indian “tostada” of semolina crackers, lentils, sprouts, chaat sauces and a sprinkle of pomegranate seeds. It’s a flush of flavor from green and sweet chutney to a yogurt drizzle and beyond. The saag paneer samosa (a classic) resembles an empanada, stuffed with a mixture of spinach and paneer (cheese) with a tomato kasundi (relish). The sharing of dishes is highly encouraged – we even shared with banquette mate Andrea Lazar (restaurant consultant to the localebrity chefs). The barley salad comes with pickled turmeric, walnuts, beets, mint and jicama. Cleanse your palette with this clean, sweet but savory salad. The ideal way to go entrée-wise is the Thalis. The sample platte comes in either vegetarian or non-vegetarian. The non-veggie has two meats, one veggie (all your choice) with some of their sides and the veggie is three veggies with their sides. Our particular non-veggie Thalis came with the butter chicken, nihari, Brussels sprouts, daily dal (lentil or bean curry, soup-like) and rice. The sides were pappadum (a crispy, thin-like cracker), carrot paratha (carrot in a wheat flour, pancake-like mixture) and some of their pickled carrots. The chicken is on the bone in a fenugreek-spiced creamy tomato curry. The sauce is outstanding. The curry is not overpowering, with sweet notes and amazing to sop up with some naan (flatbread cooked in tandoor, a cylindrical clay oven). Nihari is beef shank and oxtail slow-cooked in a spicy curry. Another delight! When we say spicy, it’s a different kind of spice. Not necessarily hot but crisp and flavorful. It’s not a “bad scary, your lips will swell and you’ll start sweating” spice. The meat is tender just as the chicken is (it falls off the bone) – proof that the meats have genuinely been cooking until perfection in these flavorful sauces. The casual setting is vibrant not only in décor but also food, making for a delicious meal that doubles as a cultural learning experience.

 

By  Beatrice Allen

 

New restaurant? email us at letters@002mag.com