Boada 
where the REAL chef is in the kitchen!

If you are looking for premier chef Arturo Boada (or his fare) at Arturo’s Italian Uptown, then you are looking in the wrong place. You won’t find either him or his fare at that location. Who knows what you will find, to be honest. As quickly as he split, he resurrected in another location by his surname Boada.
Located in a quaint space off Del Monte, this casual European bistro-like setting is anything but casual. The fare is first class – what we are used to seeing come from Arturo minus the fuss.
Red banquettes line a wall and white tablecloths cover the dining space. The walls are a neutral with amber mosaic backsplash along the kitchen wall surrounding the wood-burning oven, appropriately painted with flames surrounding the opening. At night the glitter effect on the amber mosaic creates a romantic glow while the window frames create the illusion of argyle wallpaper on the walls. The bar is up front and center peering into the kitchen and the oven. Tables are available outside for dining al fresco.
Our dinner at 7:30pm on a Tuesday night saw a steady stream of diners coming and going through the night. Apparently, those with their ear to the street know where to find Arturo’s treats.
The menu combines his best sellers from Solero’s tapas, Beso, Italian dishes and new innovative delights.
We were more than thrilled to see the return of his fish tacos under the Tapas along with his impeccable papas bravas.

Without fail the three snapper taquitos with a Serrano garlic pepper sauce and cilantro are nostalgia in a mini-tortilla. If you are longing to know what an authentic taco from Mexico would taste and most likely look like, this is it. Minus the meat that is. All of these components attain that grilled flavor that we long for. A squeeze of lime and it’s as if I’m transported to Mexico. Amazing.
We can’t mention the tacos without also giving credit to his papas bravas. The first time I ever tasted this dish was at an Arturo establishment. Chunks of potato are served with mushroom, sausage and red pepper for a spicy punch.
His newbies carved a place in my heart instantly. Especially when it comes to the fresh mussels sautéed in a tomatillo/jalapeno/cilantro concoction. Oh, holy cow! It’s finger-licking, bread-dipping, spoon-sipping deliciousness! It’s not as spicy as you would imagine. Slices of jalapeno and halves of tomatillo are swimming in this buttery sauce along with the mussels perfect for scooping.

On the other hand we tried the Camarones Henesy en Hamaca and were impressed with a completely different spectrum of seasoning. Shrimp is sautéed with hearts of palm, tomato, cilantro in a soy-ginger sauce all on a bed of sweet plantains. The best bite is getting a bit of plantain, shrimp, tomato and a piece of palm all drenched in the sauce, it’s amazing. Who knew shrimp and plantain worked so well together!

In order to really assess Arturo’s talent we still needed to try some meat. Being that he has seafood down to a science (his ceviche is one of the freshest, simple, cleanest there is in the city), his preparation of meat is equally on par. The Beef Blue comes with a 4oz filet nestled on top of tomato slices covered in blue cheese sprinkles and crispy thin onion rings. The meat is grilled to tender perfection and surprisingly this little nugget of meat is a beautiful cut. You would assume such a small portion wouldn’t be the best but you’d be wrong. If a meat craving is what you have, this is a great decent-sized, expertly prepared filet to indulge.

I couldn’t resist the Grilled Sashimi grade tuna. All of my favorite ingredients combined appear on the menu in one dish! Arugula is arranged atop the filet of tuna with grape tomatoes and it’s all lightly dressed in a subtly hinted truffle oil lemon drizzle. The dish is extremely light but very satisfying. Even the men, who I’ve noticed aren’t as fond of truffle oil as we women, couldn’t resist this light combination. It’s ideal for these upcoming warmer months when all you crave is something light but filling and equally refreshing in taste.

But wait! We still indulged in dessert. If you haven’t tried Arturo’s banana invention, you have not lived. It’s like bananas and cinnamon rolls combine to have a baby. Bananas that are filled with cinnamon are wrapped in the lightest crust and then served cut open on a plate with a cinnamon drizzle. I’m not big on warm bananas or having them in my dessert but this goes above all those convictions. This is cinnamon roll deceiving! It’s crunchy, not overly mushy at all, and cinnamon goodness.

So let me reiterate, if you are looking for Premier Chef Arturo Boada or his fare, do yourself a favor and head in the right direction, 6510 Del Monte. He and his attentive staff are waiting to welcome and astound you!

SAMPLE MENU SELECTIONS

salad

• Sliced Grilled Beef mixed greens, red apple,

fresh mozzarella, walnuts, tomato, avocado

drizzled with balsamic glaze 16.50

• Whole Nine Yards shrimp, chicken, smoked

salmon, artichoke, tomato, avocado, hearts of

palm, cooked egg, sweet peas in a champagne

dressing 18.50 pizza

• Carnitas charred salsa, asadero cheese, onion,

fresh cilantro 14

• Italian Sausage fresh fennel, spicy diavola

sausage 14 pasta

• Fettuccine and Shrimp in a creamy

cilantro pesto 19.50

• Rigatoni grilled chicken, sweet peas, mushroom,

prosciutto, suga rosa sauce 18.50

seafood+meat

• Snapper al Fresco sautéed with fresh tomato,

basil and garlic finished with capers and white

wine topped with jumbo lump crab meat 28.50

• Grilled 8oz Beef Filet 32.50

• Grilled 16oz NY Strip 49.50

NOTE: Choose your sauce: Black Peppercorn, Wild Mushroom or Chimichurri

1. grilled salmon

2. camarones henesy en hamaca

3. carnitas pizza

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman

FREE FALLING…FOR BRUNCH!

1. shawn panter | 2. freebirds libby vw 3. hybrid burrito | 4. taco combo | 5. shepherd plaza location

You’ve all heard the term Sunday Funday, and some of you may have experienced this “ride” as well. It can be long and very “bumpy.” From club music blaring in the daylight hours, high heels and outfits that shouldn’t been seen in the daylight, this version might be too hardcore for some just looking to chill…with a bottomless mimosa option and a tab that doesn’t resemble bottle service on a Saturday night.

In comes Freebirds World Burrito Shepherd Plaza to the rescue. Aside from normally being a very relaxed place to spend hours of your day, they joined in on the brunch love with their Unplugged Weekend Brunch, this laid-back, enjoyable attitude with drink specials and a meal all under $15 plus live acoustic music by local and national artists.

In comes Freebirds World Burrito Shepherd Plaza to the rescue. Aside from normally being a very relaxed place to spend hours of your day, they joined in on the brunch love with their Unplugged Weekend Brunch, this laid-back, enjoyable attitude with drink specials and a meal all under $15 plus live acoustic music by local and national artists.

Both their full menu and brunch menu are available during this time. What’s on their brunch menu? The normal shell, a burrito, taco combo, bowl, etc., with your choice of breakfast fillings, i.e., eggs, chorizo, their brown sugar n’ spice bacon, hash browns plus the usual cheese, beans, toppings galore and salsas. But the normal is anything but if you haven’t visited Freebirds before.

Your tortilla could be flour, corn, spinach, cayenne or whole wheat. Same goes for the tacos except you also get the option of hard or soft corn tortilla. Fillings like slow-roasted carnitas, fire-grilled chicken or steak to fresh veggies make your burrito, quesadilla, nachos, burrito bowl, freedom salad or taco even more extraordinary.

Personalize your particular dish with “freebies” like white or red onion, tomato, pico de gallo, jalapenos, cilantro, lettuce, roasted peppers and onions, roasted garlic, homemade corn salsa, poblano salsa and more. Add extras like sour cream, guacamole, queso or avocado, and your dish could be as dressed up or down as you want it.

And we have yet to add a sauce! From calm to feisty, picking your spice level is foolproof.  Fresh squeezed lime juice starts the scale  at 0 with salsa, bad *ss BBQ, mild tomatillo, hot tomatillo, their death sauce and Habanero rounding out the scale at 10+ for heat. Work up a tolerance with this scale on your visits. Before you know it, that Habanero will be on a level 2 to you.

Unsure of what you feel like that day, let your eyes do the choosing. From their Hybrid to the Super Monster (can weigh up to 7lbs!) size options in burritos, all appetites are covered.  With assembly-line style ordering you can see all the fresh ingredients as they go into your “shell” of choice. Add more as you see fit. There is no wrong combination. With this many options, your choices are endless. Add chips and a fountain drink and you have a fresh, gourmet meal at a minimal price. That can’t be beat.

But on the weekends it can! Add the relaxed atmosphere with unplugged musical acts and $2 drink specials or $8 Monster Mimosa to your delicious customized meal. Rumor has it national acts like Barenaked Ladies have dropped in for surprise sets as well as others.

Their Unplugged Brunch is only fitting for a restaurant that embodies music and embraces that 60’s free spirit with music lyrics on the walls that reverberate through the speakers as their iconic Statue of Liberty aka “Libby” rides a motorcycle in the background. Freebirds brings you the freedom of choice, chilling and music for all!

Best of all, no dress code or bouncer at the door! Free fall into FREEBIRDS!

3745 Greenbriar [Shepherd Plaza]

Houston, TX 77027

713.524.0621 | www.freebirds.com

Hours:

Monday–Thursday: 11am-10pm

Friday: 11am-11pm

Saturday 10am-11pm

Sunday: 10am-10pm

Weekend Brunch: Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

HOW TO EAT YOUR BURRITO

this is only a suggestion. it’s a free country. eat it any way you like.

• Lightly pull the foil from one end of

your burrito.

• Peel off about 2 inches of foil and enjoy.

• Repeat as necessary to finish.

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman

A FINE (DINING) FRENZY

Rocket Salad with Prosciutto

3833 Richmond Avenue | Houston, TX 77027

713.621.1114 | www.oporto.us

Hours:

Monday – Wednesday: 11am-11pm

Thursday – Friday: 11am-Midnight

Saturday & Sunday: 4pm-Midnight

Oporto, big sister to Queen Vic and a Euro-Mediterranean inspired boutique bar, is authentic as can be expected without hopping a plane to Europe. Cuisine, cocktails, small boutique space with a “relax as you pick at your food” feeling and wait for a table – like you would find at tapas dives in Spain. Because like in Spain, no one is in a rush to leave such excellent company, food or conversation in such an ideal setting.

Queso de Cabra

Off Richmond (across from the famed Costco) and tucked into a shopping center sprinkled with other gastronomic choices, this is the gem amongst the stones. We wish we could give you an ideal time to come but it seems their happy hour deals can’t be beat and since the food has a following, combined with a small space, at any given time it could be packed. If you are a late eater, then lucky for you, because on our particular Tuesday night we dined at 7:30pm with a full house. Around 9pm more tables were available which still gives you time to eat since they close at 11pm.

Parking can also be a challenge when you are in a strip mall with so many other retailers that stay open late, so keep that in mind and don’t be discouraged. The outcome is worth the search!

Crab & Avocado Crostini

Upon entering the small space two lounge areas take up much needed space for more tables. Along one wall, there is banquette seating and on the opposite wall there are tables parallel to the wall all the way up to the waiters’ computer. A little tight if you ask me. A bar along the wall with the parallel tables also makes room for extra seating. (A couple tables are outside if you don’t mind being on the sidewalk of the shopping center.) Lighting is romantically dim for some and too dim for others; providing the only light at your table is a tea-light candle. Specials can be found on the chalkboards toward the entrance of the banquette wall. On our particular evening, they also had a printed menu of daily specials offered.

While we looked over all the various tapas offerings, heavy on Spanish and Portugese influence, we snacked on the most enormous marinated green olives and crunchy, spicy almonds. A huge fan of olives, I was excited to not have the tiny mix you’re usually served as tapas. Looking back at my receipt, I would think $3 per small dish of olives and almonds is rather steep when you can buy a whole can/jar at that price. Otherwise, everything else is reasonably priced.

After receiving a rundown of the menu from owner Rick Di Virgilio, we decided on splitting a salad (we were told they were larger than a tapa) and ordering two tapas (two to three bites per person) for dinner.

Our Salada Marocaine was a mix of lettuce, apple, Gruyere, candied walnut, black olives, fresh mint & preserved lemon tossed in a tomato Dijon vinaigrette. He was right about the serving; the bowl may seem small but there is a slew of salad deep inside. The flavors were crisp and clean with the apple, olives, mint and lemon Dijon. The Gruyere got somewhat lost in these flavors and on our particular salad, we didn’t get one candied walnut. An oversight I’m sure and the salad was still a delight.

Our Crab and Avocado Crostini with mounds of fresh lump crab meat served over grilled bread and topped with green herb aioli, a sliver of roasted red pepper and a slice of avocado was a light delight next to our decadent Manchego Mac N’ Cheese. Ziti pasta is baked with a Manchego cheese sauce, crispy Spanish jamon and green peas to make a rich, creamy, simple yet sinful combination. The Crostini with its lemon wedges for dressing served like a light palette teaser next to the velvety cheese sauce of the Mac n’ Cheese. While the Crostini came with three decent-sized servings the Mac n’ Cheese was much more than two to three bites each. It could be a dinner serving all on its own.

Not one to skip dessert, we ended our meal with their Espresso Chocolate Tart. A flourless espresso chocolate cake with hints of cinnamon and lemon zest is an ideal balance of sweet and salty. You get a sweet fix without that overindulgence feel.

While service can be spotty, this Euro-Mediterranean café delivers authentic, beautifully seasoned dishes that can only explain the droves that come out for their highly popular happy hour, making it not only ideal for those on a budget but also for those looking to impress their date with a deliciously romantic experience.

sample menu selections

tapas

• Albondigas Marruecos Moroccan-style lamb meatballs braised in a charmoula-tomato sauce. Served with fresh warm pita. $8

• Oportobello Marinated Portobello mushroom baked with a spinach and artichoke gratin. Served over arugula and drizzled with truffle oil. $10

• Espetada do Carne Grilled marinated beef tenderloin skewers served with polenta cake and veggies. $12

salad+soup

• Canja Portuguese chicken and rice soup topped with mint and lemon. $4c/ 5.50b

• Salada Atlantico Chopped salad, avocado, hearts of palm, cherry tomato, pickled red onion, artichoke, w/ lemon honey vinaigrette. $8

• Caesar OPORTO Hearts of romaine lettuce with red onions, garlic croutons, homemade Caesar dressing & parmesan. $7

pizzette+panini

• Pizzette Rustica Topped with tomato sauce, Gouda cheese, red pepper and artichokes.  $9

• Pizzette do Terre Grilled chicken, caramelized onions, goat’s cheese, rosemary, E.V. olive oil.

• Panini Formaggio Grilled cheese sandwich with Gouda, Gruyere and Parmesean on ciabatta.  $8

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman

TWO WORLDS COINCIDE

This historical mansion has been updated starting with a new chef and renovated suites. Originally built in 1923 as the Fondren Mansion, this boutique hotel (the world’s smallest) has only five luxurious suites located in the main structure with CINQ, the restaurant, and the library plus a bar and art gallery. If you’re looking to stay longer, villas are available across the street at the Court of Colombe. These one- to two-bedroom condos have an added living space and a kitchen.

Cinq Main Dining Room

With a new, young and extremely talented chef at the helm in the kitchen, classic dishes sit side by side with new innovative soon-to-be favorites. Chef Jeramie Robison, a Louisiana native with experience in kitchens behind lauded chefs at Dallas’ The Mansion on Turtle Creek, David Burke’s Fishtail in New York and a short, but well received, stint under John Tesar at Tesar’s in The Woodlands – lack of inspiration or experience is certainly not found on his résumé. The menu of modern European cuisine with touches of Texas Creole accents allow Robison to not only create inventive new dishes but also be creative with his renditions of La Colombe d’Or classics.

Renoir Suite

Chef Jeramie must’ve known the way to my heart is vinegar. We were served a pickled vegetable amuse bouche with carrots, beets and Brussels sprouts. Just the tiniest bite but bursting with flavor to cleanse our palette and show us a sneak peek of what he has to offer.

If you’ve never tried octopus – never even occurred to you to order it – this is the place to check it off your bucket list. Usually served in a ceviche or raw, their octopus is braised. We didn’t even know it could come this way! Braised octopus is served atop an avocado aioli with garlic purée, chorizo and celery heart salad. The octopus is tender and the last little bit is crispy (my favorite part) – with a touch of the avocado aioli it’s bright and the chorizo adds just a bit of spicy flavor.  The combination of flavors will have you rethinking your opinion of octopus.

Willing to be guinea pigs, a few items we had the pleasure to sample were special variations of items already on the menu. The evening of our meal it just so happened to freeze for the second time in Houston this winter season. Our variation of grilled Branzino, Mediterranean sea bass, with sunchoke purée, mushroom paint and powder paired perfectly with the climate. Once you crush through the branzino’s crispy crust, flaky white fish is exposed. The perfect bite is a swipe of mushroom paint plus powder, purée and the result is this delicate, warm savory deliciousness. It’s comfort food gone gourmet. But our taste testing didn’t end there, to our delight!

Cinq Garden Room

Another culinary surprise for the weather was Robison’s poached red snapper with crabmeat and prawns in a citrus, white wine broth. His take of a bouillabaisse was light, not overzealous, a great balance of just enough, properly prepared fish and shellfish laying in just the slightest bit of broth to warm you up.

Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass. Many have it on their menu. Many claim it’s the best item on that menu and even the best in town. Rarely have such bold statements lived up to what we were served. And then there is CINQ’s Pan Seared Chilean Sea Bass. And it really is the BEST.  Served with jasmine rice, roasted peanuts, caramelized ginger and curry sage in a soy glaze, this bass is perfection. The Asian influenced dish is the ideal balance of flavor. Neither the ginger nor the curry is overwhelming and the bass has just the right sear that the soy glaze clings to. Chef Robison really shines in his fish skills with both this bass and the branzino. That doesn’t mean he isn’t equally skilled with meat…

To prepare us for the meat feast, we sampled one Luna Ravioli. Braised beef, foie gras, Parmesan Monte and beef jus are masterfully combined into this warm pocket of wow. It’s intoxicatingly rich and velvety.

Never having tried braised short ribs before, I’m pretty sure after having them here, I will never be able to order them again. My expectations have been set extraordinarily high with this presentation. Braised Short Ribs, corn vloute, red wine stewed cabbage, wild mushrooms in a veal demi-glace is fall off the bone tender. No knife required awesomeness.

After our overindulgent, decadent meal, with full bellies we toured the five renovated suites, which vary from one bedroom with a sitting area or dining room. The décor is gilded, elegant antique pieces that you might find yourself wanting to take home. Attention to detail in not overlooked even at the villas across the street. The theme in elegance is carried on to create a harmonious story. It’s romantic, European opulence done right.

La Colombe d’Or - Bar

Our villa was the Fragonard. All the rooms (villas and suites) are named after famous artists, in keeping with their fondness of art. The one-bedroom, two-story condo suite had a living room, kitchen and bathroom. It’s a quaint, comfortable stay that transports you to another place. Almost like staying in a cute European boutique hotel with luscious courtyard and romantic fountains.

The next morning it was back to reality but not before enjoying the courtyard and romantic fountains that had iced over forming icicles all around the perimeter of the sweet cherubs’ feet. Romance and indulgence remain in this historical establishment even with the change of name and a new vibrant chef – all storied traditions are not forgotten, just renewed.

sample menu selections

appetizers

• Lobster Salad new ideas In a dijon mustard remoulade over rice vinegar marinated cucumber 19

• Caledonia Prawns new ideas Bordignon polenta, tomato compote, shrimp consommé 18/32

• Jumbo Lump Crab or Loch Duart Salmon Tower Avocado, vine ripe tomato and orange dressing 24

• Lobster Bisque With Louisiana lump crabmeat 10

entrées

• House Made Three Chili Rubbed Pork Tenderloin new ideas Granny Smith applesauce, pommes purée, roasted corn relish, au jus 29

• Cast Iron Seared Sea Scallops new ideas Celery root purée, roasted wild mushrooms and mushroom essence 30

• Asian Fusion Redfish Grilled with Asian herbs and spices 29

• Rib Eye with Green Peppercorn Sauce 18 oz. 21 day aged prime rib-eye, shallot confit, mushroom ragout 44

• Chateaubriand The Chef’s masterpiece served in a grand tradition with bouquetiere of fresh vegetables, sauce béarnaise, for two or more 42pp

CINQ at La Colombe d’Or

3410 Montrose Blvd. | Houston, TX 77006

713.469.4750 | www.lacolombedor.com

Hours: Monday – Friday: 11:30am-2pm

Monday – Thursday 6pm-9pm

Friday & Saturday 6pm-11pm

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Julie Soefer

Samba Grille

Located in Bayou Place, sandwiched in between Verizon Wireless Theatre and Mingalone with Wortham across the street, their location could not be more ideal for this Churrascaria.

Multiple areas of dining from private to on the main floor to upper level seating provide a complete view of the space. In tones of red and black, all is aglow with just the right amount of light to enjoy your meal and still be able to read the menu.

When it comes to ordering food and wine, the servers and wine director, Marc Borel, are beyond knowledgeable. We had everything explained on our visit – from how a caipirinha is made to how new menu item, the 40-day aged New York strip, is made. There isn’t a question they won’t seek to answer.

Speaking of caipirinha, I started with this knockout cocktail recommended by Marc while my husband had a great glass of South American wine at his recommendation as well. A caipirinha is basically cachaça, sugar and lime. This beverage hailing from Brazil is made from their most common distilled alcohol, cachaça, derived from sugar cane. Lime is muddled, sliced, mixed with cachaça and sugar and – voila! –  caipirinha. This refreshing beverage is really easy to drink which is surprising considering you’re mostly imbibing liquor.

There are two ways to dine at Samba, traditional entrée style or the highly recommended Rodizio. Rodizio is essentially a meat parade. Their expert carvers continuously serve different cuts of fire-roasted meats from the rotisserie skewers prepared right to your plate. An assortment of vegetables including green beans, glazed carrots, sweet plantains, marinated mushrooms, fried yucca, peppadew peppers are presented to your table, as well as your choice of soup or salad and your choice of asparagus, black beans, rice, garlic mashed potatoes, white rice or sautéed spinach. It’s a well-rounded amount of quality food at a great value.

Having already experienced the impressive meat parade, on this visit we opted for traditional ordering.

We started with the Pastels. A perfectly seasoned array of empanadas, one beef, one seafood and one black bean are served alongside their tangy Samba sauce. Large enough to split each one to make more bites, these empanadas are a savory delight. The seafood empanada with bits of shrimp and a touch of tangy sauce is phenomenal. It’s a bit creamy inside and the seafood bits are tender. The shell is a light pastry; rather than dense, it is flaky. All these things combine for a pretty amazing empanada.

For dinner I ordered the Samba red snapper and my husband, the seafood paella. Expecting one of us to have the better dish, we were pleasantly surprised when both dishes had us each declaring one another the winner.

My pan sautéed snapper filet with a grilled jumbo shrimp, jumbo lump crab and tomato came atop braised Swiss chard and grilled asparagus lightly dressed in a maracujá buerre blanc (aka a passion fruit, rich warm butter sauce). Each component has its own seasoning that, when combined, delighted. The asparagus’ grilled flavor with the dense Swiss chard and astoundingly tender “pillow” of snapper in the butter sauce had all the pieces coming together yet not overpowering each other.

The seafood paella is prepared using this same technique. Scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels, chorizo and snapper are placed atop saffron rice. Equally wonderful in rich flavor and aesthetically pleasing with the bright yellow rice and grilled and “blushed” seafood piled on top.

Not ones to skip out on dessert even when full, we ordered their Tres Leches and an Espresso Martini. Having tried the martini before, ordering one is a no-brainer. Made with a shot of espresso, kahlua and vanilla vodka, its cold sweetness will awaken your senses.

Their Tres Leches is one of the most authentic tasting and looking I’ve seen in the city. Just from one glance, you can tell it’s going to be good. The top is lightly covered in icing. As you move down the cake seems moist and then toward the bottom it’s milky/creamy. It’s not sitting in a soup of milk or falling apart from the liquid content. Its texture, flavor and density is just as it should be…right.

Their Tres Leches is made correctly, as are all of their dishes. The flavors are not overwhelming and when paired with the various components on the dish you get an expertly executed meal that is worth every penny and every bite with zero guilt.

Red Snapper

Multiple areas of dining from private to on the main floor to upper level seating provide a complete view of the space. In tones of red and black, all is aglow with just the right amount of light to enjoy your meal and still be able to read the menu.

When it comes to ordering food and wine, the servers and wine director, Marc Borel, are beyond knowledgeable. We had everything explained on our visit – from how a caipirinha is made to how new menu item, the 40-day aged New York strip, is made. There isn’t a question they won’t seek to answer.

Samba Rodízio (Picanha Top Sirloin)

Speaking of caipirinha, I started with this knockout cocktail recommended by Marc while my husband had a great glass of South American wine at his recommendation as well. A caipirinha is basically cachaça, sugar and lime. This beverage hailing from Brazil is made from their most common distilled alcohol, cachaça, derived from sugar cane. Lime is muddled, sliced, mixed with cachaça and sugar and – voila! –  caipirinha. This refreshing beverage is really easy to drink which is surprising considering you’re mostly imbibing liquor.

There are two ways to dine at Samba, traditional entrée style or the highly recommended Rodizio. Rodizio is essentially a meat parade. Their expert carvers continuously serve different cuts of fire-roasted meats from the rotisserie skewers prepared right to your plate. An assortment of vegetables including green beans, glazed carrots, sweet plantains, marinated mushrooms, fried yucca, peppadew peppers are presented to your table, as well as your choice of soup or salad and your choice of asparagus, black beans, rice, garlic mashed potatoes, white rice or sautéed spinach. It’s a well-rounded amount of quality food at a great value.

Having already experienced the impressive meat parade, on this visit we opted for traditional ordering.

We started with the Pastels. A perfectly seasoned array of empanadas, one beef, one seafood and one black bean are served alongside their tangy Samba sauce. Large enough to split each one to make more bites, these empanadas are a savory delight. The seafood empanada with bits of shrimp and a touch of tangy sauce is phenomenal. It’s a bit creamy inside and the seafood bits are tender. The shell is a light pastry; rather than dense, it is flaky. All these things combine for a pretty amazing empanada.

For dinner I ordered the Samba red snapper and my husband, the seafood paella. Expecting one of us to have the better dish, we were pleasantly surprised when both dishes had us each declaring one another the winner.

My pan sautéed snapper filet with a grilled jumbo shrimp, jumbo lump crab and tomato came atop braised Swiss chard and grilled asparagus lightly dressed in a maracujá buerre blanc (aka a passion fruit, rich warm butter sauce). Each component has its own seasoning that, when combined, delighted. The asparagus’ grilled flavor with the dense Swiss chard and astoundingly tender “pillow” of snapper in the butter sauce had all the pieces coming together yet not overpowering each other.

The seafood paella is prepared using this same technique. Scallops, shrimp, clams, mussels, chorizo and snapper are placed atop saffron rice. Equally wonderful in rich flavor and aesthetically pleasing with the bright yellow rice and grilled and “blushed” seafood piled on top.

Not ones to skip out on dessert even when full, we ordered their Tres Leches and an Espresso Martini. Having tried the martini before, ordering one is a no-brainer. Made with a shot of espresso, kahlua and vanilla vodka, its cold sweetness will awaken your senses.

Fresh Frui Tart w/Guanabana Custard

Their Tres Leches is one of the most authentic tasting and looking I’ve seen in the city. Just from one glance, you can tell it’s going to be good. The top is lightly covered in icing. As you move down the cake seems moist and then toward the bottom it’s milky/creamy. It’s not sitting in a soup of milk or falling apart from the liquid content. Its texture, flavor and density is just as it should be…right.

Their Tres Leches is made correctly, as are all of their dishes. The flavors are not overwhelming and when paired with the various components on the dish you get an expertly executed meal that is worth every penny and every bite with zero guilt.

Samba Grille

530 Texas Ave. | Houston, TX 77002

713.343.1183 | www.sambagrillehouston.com

Hours:

Monday 11am-2pm

Tuesday-Thursday 11am-2pm/4:30pm-10pm

Saturday 4:30-9pm

Sunday 12pm-9pm

*open for dinner 4:30-10pm on performance Mondays

** open for lunch 11-2pm on performance Saturdays

sample menu selections

aperitivos

• Camarão Buñuelos – six large yucca tempura fried shrimp with a guava jelly sauce $12

• Samba Crab Cake – South American style crab cake bound with yucca and topped with maracujá beurre blanc $14

soup and salad

• Ancho Tomato Soup -a hot and creamy tomato basil soup with a smoky spice $4

• Samba Salad -mesclun, fried artichokes, tomatoes, sweet red onions and hearts of palm with tamarind vinaigrette $8

• Jade Soup -spinach and broccoli cream with crabmeat gratin $6

swimmers

• Rio Camarão -four grilled jumbo shrimp in maracujá buerre blanc with coconut rice $23

grazers

• Yucca Crusted Stuffed Chicken -yucca crusted chicken breast stuffed with goat cheese, with coconut rice and grilled asparagus $20

• Achiote Crusted Pork Shank -roasted pork shank with braised Swiss chard and manchego risotto $28

• Gaucho -South American center-cut tenderloin with chimichuri sauce, yucca croquettes, sweet plantains and grilled asparagus $32

By Beatrice Allen | 

Photography by Kim Coffman

MOST IMPORTANT MEAL OF THE DAY

When the announcement of the Market Square revival landed on our desks, we couldn’t have been more excited. With it, came the news that one of Houston’s most revered Greek establishments would also be calling this new spot home for their second outpost.