THE HOLY GRAIL: CREATIVITY, FOOD AND DESIGN IN PERFECT HARMONY

1. petit fours | 2. triniti interior| 3. snapper with sunchoke puree 4. executive chef ryan hildebrand

If you’ve been on Shepherd you’ve probably noticed the facelift on the space formerly known as Pravada (and Chrome). Local architect firm MC2 has revamped the entire space from inside out. You definitely have to see it to believe it. How this space was transformed into the beauty it is now is unfathomable. The corrugated metal panels on the outer shell change from green to orange depending on the direction you are facing the building. This organic, rust-hued theme is carried throughout the build out/interior – even to the chef’s garden at the entrance. The metal containers will change over time to develop a natural beautiful patina. No detail was overlooked with Triniti.

Upon entry white walls define a bar, large dining room and open kitchen space. Patio seating is available in an intimate atmosphere (only 40 tables) with three custom-made water features.
Ins décor is very light, California-style organic with metal, woods, concrete all exposed to create a space that is not too casual but not overly modern. It’s comfortably perfect. It appeals to not only business lunches but also families.
British designer Tom Dixon’s wooden, surprisingly comfortable chairs, along with his light fixtures plus a custom chandelier, lend more beauty to the space. Renowned artist Todd Murphy created an oversized painting that hangs facing the dining room and surprises you with new elements from any angle in the room – from hidden birds to changing dominate colors. Chef Ryan Hildebrand and his team succeed in creating his goal “to merge white tablecloth food and service with a casual, interactive dining experience.” The feel of the space is transformed from light during the day with the sunshine to a warm beautiful glow at night.
We tested that theory by not only dining here for lunch but also dinner … in the same day. It helps to note that the menu also varies at both.
We started with the soup special for the day. A decadent lobster bisque with melted leeks and a brioche nugget awoke our taste buds. I had the luxury of tasting this same soup for an amous bouche at dinner and both experiences were heavenly. The texture, light and fluffy, disappeared the moment it hit your mouth with its luscious flavor. If this is on the menu, it’s a must try.
To be fair we also had the celery root soup to compare. Like night and day, the bisque was savory; the celery root, a beautiful, creamy fluff of sweet with savory notes. With a dollop of cinnamon cream sprinkled with cinnamon as well as an apple fritter nugget.
We couldn’t resist the endive salad with a combination of slivers of diver scallops, citrus (orange and grapefruit) wedges, pistachios, veldhuizen cheddar shavings and polenta crisps atop a bed of greens. It’s not only a light and clean salad but also a beautiful palette of colors. Our entrées followed suit with beautiful presentations, colorful plating and simple, clean flavors.
The beet and butternut squash toast is the epitome of this. With the bright fuchsia of the beet, the orange of the squash, the bright green arugula and pear all atop a square of toast, the goat cheese and dots of balsamic, this dish is as aesthetically pleasing as it is divine. The roasted vegetables with the crisp fresh greens and fruit and a swipe of smooth cheese in the thick, aged balsamic that has just a hint of truffle is a wonderful marriage of components. Plus the serving size is perfection. This was a recurring theme with the rest of the entrées as well.
The beef pinwheel had two medallions sitting on top of potato puree with a dollop of chimichurri, a couple baby bok choy and a few roasted carrots. Again, the ideal serving size for a lunch dish, just enough so you don’t feel weighted down afterward. This tender beef paired with the puree and subtle chimichurri is a simple pairing expertly prepared.
You can’t pass up their chicken “in” dumplings. The plating is whimsical with the little dumplings sitting atop a small potato circle surrounded by fall peas with mini globe carrots all drizzled in a sage gravy. It brings to mind Peter Rabbit. The playful dish is a taste bud pleaser. This savory dish is gourmet comfort food, portion control.
With Chef de Cuisine Jose Hernandez (you will recognize his style from his days at Philippe) helming dessert, one can only expect pure delectable art for a nightcap. And he did not disappoint.
Among our favorites is the Gianduja. Gianduja is a style of chocolate made from combining chocolate and hazelnut paste. Here it is turned into a mousse with a ricotta cream center, covered in dark gianduja and served with a side of hazelnut ice cream with hazelnut dusting. The texture is that of a cloud. It’s so incredibly light and fluffy, it literally evaporates in your mouth. A piece of heaven on a spoon.
While at lunch, thoroughly pleased with our experience, we changed our dinner plans to be back at Triniti to taste the dinner menu as well.
If you’re looking for a light starter, look no further than the beet and pear salad. Golden beets and the norm dot the plate with Pure Luck goat cheese, mint, oregano, yuzu and a sliver of pear right on top. If you want something a little more filling and full of flavor, try the rich Kale salad. A bed of kale is topped with a slice of toast with a sunny-side-up egg in the middle topped with a crispy pancetta wheel, lemon and olive oil, along with a white anchovy. Once you cut into the egg the yolk oozes into the bread and kale for a mind-blowing bite.
Since we were a large group, I got to taste the salmon, striped sea bass and the pork. A beautiful salmon filet is served atop white asparagus stalks with a bed of mushrooms, welks, tarragon and chestnuts on the side. The salmon is cooked to perfection, just a bit pink on the inside. It makes for a beautiful bite and the quality is obvious with this preparation as well. My bite of a friend’s striped sea bass with adzuki, saffron rutabaga, shallots, bok choy and red wine proved to be a different palette completely. Equally good, the bass was more robust and complex than the light, simple flavors with the salmon.
Another dish that had that robust nature was the pork. I’m not usually a pork eater but my friend ordered it and couldn’t stop raving so I had to try it. And she was right. The pork with pumpkin, parsley, cranberry and yams is a wonderful seasonal item. It tastes of wintertime with your family. The cranberry, yam puree is delightful with pork. It’s sweet, savory, hearty comfort.
It’s all in the details and Triniti has taken those details to another level. The creativity in the kitchen with an unforgettable team plus the team on the floor in the dining room is unparallel to anything in Houston at this time. One can expect and hope for wonderful things from the trifecta of creativity, food and design.

MENU SELECTIONS (lunch)

salads
• simple greens- winter greens, pickled root
vegetables, dried onion, tomato preserve 8
• frisee- pulled pheasant confit, lamb bacon, quail egg 16
sandwiches + toast
• dungeness crab- melted leeks, asparagus 15
• mblt- mortadella, bacon, smoked romaine, tomato jam 12
• pulled pork- root vegetable kimchi, cilantro 12
fish + pasta
• clams and scrambled eggs- leek, parsley, toast 12
• carrot cavatelli- brussel sprouts, bay scallop, chorizo 17
• buckwheat fettuccine- charred eggplant, root vegetable ragout, broccoli rabe, ricotta 12
meat + poultry
• dewberry hills chicken- egg, barley, shimeji 19
• pork belly- creamed sauerkraut, red potatoes, cider vinegar 18

TRINITI
2815 SOUTH SHEPhERD
Houston, TX 77098
713.527.9090 | www.trinitirestaurant.com

Hours
Lunch: Monday – Friday, 11am-2:30pm
Dinner: Monday – Thursday, 5-10pm; Friday & Saturday, 5-11pm; Sunday Supper, 4-10p

By Beatrice Allen
Photography by Kimberly Park

1. scallops & shrimp | 2. duck waffle | 3. bistro alex interior 4. executive chef rolando soga | 5. bar area

KNOCKING YOUR SOCKS OFF ONE DISH AT A TIME!

Although they’ve been on the block for two years, the fare at Bistro Alex just keeps getting better each season. Literally, that is. Their menu is ever-evolving with what’s available or representative of the season. While many tried and true favorites remain on the menu, new dishes that become recurring favorites grace the page with the change of weather.

Perched at the chef’s bar overlooking the kitchen, you get a bird’s-eye view of all the details that go into preparing your meal. It’s limited seating with an interactive touch, with chefs preparing flatbread, steaks and more right before you. They make every process look so simple.

What we thought would be a standard order-what-you-want meal turned into a 6-course menagerie of outstanding dishes. Each different, complexity ranging from mature to basic.

We started with a trio of their soups: the ideal honey apple butternut squash, their famous turtle soup and the unrivaled Gumbo Ya-Ya. This is how you really get to taste a range of what they are capable of in this kitchen. The honey apple butternut squash, prepared that very morning, was my favorite and not anything that I expected. Just from the name alone I thought it would be somewhat sweet. Wrong! The texture is incredibly creamy, smooth and fluffy, almost whipped in nature at times. The taste is pure savory comfort. It’s the kind of “curl up on the couch in front of a fire” comfort. Had I not been served all three soups, I probably would’ve NEVER ordered the famous turtle soup but I’m glad I did. It has more of a tomato base flavor with familiar spices. The turtle factor is very mild so any fear you may have should be squelched. The broth of the soup is so familiar, like something you’ve had at home, that you must taste it alone for that nostalgia. The gumbo is a recipe I would pay for. Rather than having that “dirt” flavor that some enjoy, this has been fine-tuned to a rich mild Creole spice with their homemade andouille sausage and steamed white rice. I could eat bowls of this any day!

After soup we were served two of their flatbreads: the mature homemade Andouille sausage and Tasso ham along with the more basic Backyard burger. Now in terms of mature and basic, I mean the combination of elements put together to create the overall flavor. The ham and sausage are both made on site – up to three days process for the sausage and two weeks to get their Tasso ham just right. They have a pancetta that has been curing for a month! The sausage and ham version is a true labor of love. And it’s worth all of that labor and more. I don’t usually eat ham but this Tasso is phenomenal. Paired with grilled green onion, baby arugula, shaved manchego cheese and spicy mustard, this flatbread is a gem on the menu. Compared to their Backyard burger, this one is a more adult flatbread. This doesn’t make the Backyard Burger any less delicious though. It’s a wonderfully well thought-out basic pairing that is made impressive with bold additions. Buttery ground sirloin, bold smoked gouda, grilled Texas 1015 onions and surprising BBQ chip pieces are topped with shredded romaine and dressed with cayenne ketchup and pickled okra mayo. It’s literally a burger pizza. The best burger you never thought of. The addition of such bold items as gouda, chips and their version of ketchup and mayo turn this basic flatbread into a fan favorite.

Not sufficiently full, our next surprise dish was their old-school Creole shrimp and grits. Two shrimp, head attached are served atop a mound of roasted jalapeno Andouille grits, blue heron goat cheese, all in a spicy shrimp veloute. Removing the shrimp head is actually quite easy due to the tender nature. The shrimp with the grits and goat cheese in the spicy sauce is what I thought was as rich as I could handle. Then I had their seasonal star, duck debris and butternut waffle. This dish puts a WHOLE new spin to rich.

Sitting atop a butternut squash waffle, they place coffee-braised duck “debris” with old-fashioned cranberry jam, Swiss chard and, on top, a sunny-side-up duck egg. A chicory coffee ganache and a foie gras fondue swirl around the waffle round out the dish. Now what I was served is not nearly what you are seeing in the picture. I got a quarter of that waffle and three bites into this taste bud-tantalizing, tongue enveloping dish, I had to put my fork down. My body would simply not accept one more bite. The moment you cut into the egg and the yolk covers the duck and oozes into the waffle that is already soaking up the ganache and fondue, you’ve created a sweet and savory knockout. It’s mind-blowing, amazing indulgence beyond your wildest dreams. Only a mad man could’ve dreamt up such combination!

And we weren’t done yet…

For our last dish, we were served an ideal prime rib-eye in a chicory coffee ganache with Maytag blue cheese Lyonnaise Potatoes. The meat had the perfect crisp crust achieved by searing it on a flaming hot cast iron skillet. The ganache adhered to the meat so the flavor was all encompassing with each bite. What is in theory a heavy dish is somehow lighter than what we had anticipated. The preparation of the meat is phenomenal. Knowing full well I wouldn’t be able to recreate such beauty, even after getting a summarized tutorial, I enjoyed this to the last bite.

Our meal couldn’t end on a sweeter note than a medley of white chocolate bread pudding, almond cake with macerated blueberries, pumpkin cheesecake, a coffee marshmallow and a chocolate soufflé.

Though our meal wasn’t ideal for the average diner, this was the most unique way to convey to you what this masterful group is capable of producing in the kitchen. It is beyond genius. For a restaurant that can take you through the seasons, Bistro Alex is here to make sure you have an unforgettable meal.

800 Sorella Court | CityCentre Houston

inside the hotel sorella

Houston, TX 77024

713.827.3545 | www.bistroalex.com

MENU SELECTIONS

petite salads

• CREOLE CAESAR SALAD, crisp romaine lettuce, spicy creole Caesar dressing, fried green tomato croutons $8

• THE BISTRO, field greens, Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, black pepper brioche croutons, ripped herbs & sweet sherry vinaigrette $8

small plates

• SHRIMP & TASSOS PINCHOS, crispy bamboo skewered shrimp & ham, golden pineapple slaw & crystal hot sauce butter $13

entress

• CRAB CAKE, 100% blue jumbo lump crab, roasted poblano aioli, sweet pequillo pepper coulis $38

• GRILLED BLACK ANGUS FILET OF BEET, roasted garlic yukon gold potato mash, caramelized onions & mushrooms, truffle mushroom butter, port reduction $36

• BLACKENED GULF FISH & JUMBO LUMP BLUE CRAB , creamy smoked corn maque choux,

buttered jumbo lump blue crab $27

• DUCK FOIE GRAS, Truffle risotto, quail egg,

cranberry demi, foie fondue a $29

Hours: Breakfast

Sun-Sat 6:30am-10am

Lunch

Mon-Sat

11:30-2pm

Dinner

Sun-Sat 6pm-10am

Brunch

Sunday 11am-9pm

By Beatrice Allen

Photography by Shannon O’Hara

NYC INSTITUTION CALLS HOUSTON HOME

The west side of town is having a resurgence of sorts. With the induction of City Centre and the growth around Memorial Hermann with the Westin, we also received an Italian cuisine gem. With sister locations in New York, Aspen, Vegas, Tokyo, we are among the lucky list to have Trattoria il mulino call Houston home.

Located inside said Westin, their space is very clean, modern yet inviting. A lounge area is right at the entrance that also encompasses the bar. The hostess stand and a waiting area are also located in the same area. The lighting, resembling large heating lamps, provides just the right golden orange glow to create a warm ambiance in the dining room and bar.

Separating both areas is a grappa infusion area. Jars are filled with grappa fermenting with all sorts of fruits. A lemoncello jar surrounded by an ice block is at a constant chill in a copper bucket on display as well. The grappa infuses for months at a time with the fruit changed out as needed. The longest has been steeping for 7 months! On our visit we had the luxury of tasting quite a few and the flavors are phenomenal! And I was terrified of trying grappa after my first throat “burning” introduction years ago. The fruit takes the bite right out of the grappa making it a smooth and pleasant experience. An experience everyone should partake in, especially if you’ve never tried grappa. This is the place to do it.

Once seated, their knowledgeable staff, including our waiter Carlos and general manager Donna, guided us through their menu. Among their many recommendations was a glass of Le Diffese red wine carried exclusively by them. I’m a fan of big reds but most of the time my stomach is not. This provided that full character minus the acidity that sometimes comes with it.

While looking over their numerous options and narrowing down our choices, we decided to start with the arancini, meatballs and an arugula salad for some greens.

Their arancini are a must. Most of the time these fried risotto balls are just that – fried dough and risotto which leaves them being pretty dry in my opinion. Their version is a garlic-laced dough shell with a layer of risotto and then a surprise center of Bolognese. This surprise center makes for a much more tender, flavorful fried ball. On the side is a bit of marinara for dipping.

Their acclaimed meatballs are also a hit. Offered as an antipasto or with pasta or pizza, these meatballs are worth it. Made with ricotta and parmesan, served with some marinara and a sprinkle of basil, these meatballs are tender and juicy. However you prefer to order them, with that many options, you can’t go wrong.

For our entrées, we ordered new additions to their menu from their New York location. From the pastas, we tried the ravioli porcini, gnocchi pesto and the pappardelle with sausage.

Each is on the menu separately but, for our particular tasting, we were served the grappa pairing menu version. On this special menu, only if you choose to do their grappa pairing dinner, you are served both the gnocchi pesto and the pappardelle on the same plate. These both pair with their green apple grappa. Since we ordered the ravioli as well, they added it to the same plate to save room on the table.

Each pasta is positively divine in its own right. The ravioli, stuffed with porcini in champagne truffle cream sauce, is knock-your-socks-off decadence. The gnocchi pesto, tossed in a parmesan basil sauce with pinenuts, are little pillows in a bright, intense mix of butter and garlic. It will awaken your taste buds. The pappardelle with sausage topped in a light tomato sauce with mushrooms and onions makes for a meaty and smoky combination. All three of these paired with the green apple grappa (with no sugar added) are magnified in their distinct flavors. A grappa pairing dinner is an ideal way to taste their various savory dishes.

Per recommendation we ordered their famous Osso Bucco, popular Veal Milanese and their New York classic/favorites, Branzino and deep sea scallops.

The Osso Buco – with a tender, falling off the bone veal shank that has been roasted in red wine sauce with porcini mushrooms and served with saffron risotto – is a marriage of velvet and butter. It’s rich and indulgent. If you are looking to do something after eating this delight, think again. The only thing you’ll want after this is your bed. It’s literally an intoxicating combo with the sumptuous saffron risotto.

Another dish that was surprisingly luxurious is their deep sea scallops. Wrapped in pancetta and accompanied by spinach, the scallops are accompanied by a garlic butter, white wine sauce. The pancetta manages to add such depth to the scallops that even without it, the flavor remains. The spinach has a punch of garlic that combined with the sauce turns a usually light green into a rich knockout.

On the simple side, their Veal Milanese is pounded thin, breaded and topped with chopped arugula, diced tomatoes and red onion. It’s like eating your greens at the same time as your entrée. I’m a fan of this style of dish. Although breaded it’s an extremely light, effortless dish. The only accompaniment is a squeeze of lemon to brighten the ingredients.

The Branzino, Italian sea bass stuffed with garlic and rosemary baked in Sicilian sea salt, is another uncomplicated dish that is prepared wonderfully. Served out of the skin, the “meat” is flaky, light and fluffy. It’s a clean dish that is good for the calorie-conscious. Although you might be missing out on the rich factor, the fish is done so expertly that although simple it is just as decadent.

Should you have room after your meal, the desserts are equally impressive. With seasonal delights like pumpkin cheesecake made with ricotta to fan favorites like tiramisu, there is something for everyone. This is also a great time to pair your dessert with a grappa. We had our pumpkin cheesecake with their fig grappa, an ideal winter combo.

This winter, escape the cold and find refuge in this Trattoria. Treat yourself to some luxurious dishes in a warm setting.

MENU SELECTIONS
pizza
• Rustica- 15
• Meatbal-l 15
antipasti
• Mozzarella in Carrozza- Fried buffalo
mozzarella w/ marinara sauce 11
• Sausage Broccoli Rabe- w/ hot peppers 10
insalate
• Endive- Fresh endive w/ lemon and olive oil 7
• Arugula Salad- Baby Arugula w/ olive oil and
fresh lemon topped w/ shaved aged parmesan cheese 7 pasta e risotto
• Penne Rigate & Ricotta- 15
• Rigatoni con Funghi- Cherry peppers & garlic 16
• Spaghetti Carbonara- Pancetta, onions and parmesan cheese 16 pesce
• Dentice- Seared red snapper 26
• Shrimp Francese- 21

945 GESSNER RD.
inside the westin hotel, memorial city
Houston, TX 77024
832.358.0600 | www.ilmulino.com

By Beatrice Allen
Food photography by Kim Coffman
Interior + Chef Photography by Kevin Marple

SOMETHIN’ TO CROW ABOUT!

1. dixie fried chicken cheddar biscuits | 2. shrimp boil dinner | 3. brc interior 4. working chef / partner: lance w. fegen

It could only mean one thing: If people are willing to venture into the rain, on a Sunday no less, I’m in for some good eats.
Their new fall menu had just rolled out on Wednesday, with it looking a bit different than its previous casual version. Feeling adventurous and on a hummus kick, we went with their new dual dip for starters.
The dual dip comes with a roasted cauliflower hummus and crudités and hot Maryland style crab dip with Ritz crackers. After one taste of each dip you’re going to think the serving could be a bit bigger, if only to be able to indulge in just a bit more. The crudités were the norm carrot, celery, grape tomato to the more original green beans, asparagus and red bell pepper. Expecting a round of Ritz beside the crab dip, I was pleasantly surprised to see their version of a Ritz. It’s larger but the flavor is identical. Maybe it’s crushed Ritz baked into larger pieces; whatever the case, its butter flavor is perfect with the rich, warm crab dip. This serving size compared to my entrée was a bit off-balance. From two little condiment-sized bowls, I was about to be flabbergasted with what a “bowl” means here.
Not able to decide between a burger or sliders, I went with the next best thing, their new burger bowl. A sledge of iceberg is covered in chopped burger, fries, avocado, bacon slices, jalapeno, ranch and chili con queso. I know, it’s hard to imagine. The moment I was served my “bowl” (it’s more of a serving bowl than a soup bowl), the only thing I could say was “whoa.”
A quarter to half a head of iceberg lettuce is covered in ranch. Then it’s layered with burger bun chunks, maple bacon, avocado slivers and tomato halves. Then that is covered with a mound of French fries covered in chili con queso (just queso, no chili) and dotted with big jalapeno slices. Along the perimeter of this mound are chunks of cheese-covered hamburger patty. And the serving is HUGE!
It is literally all the components of a burger in a bowl with ten times more lettuce. And the idea is BRILLIANT! I get all the pleasure of eating a burger with minimal guilt. I basically dug around until I found the lettuce and cut it along with everything else, pushing the fries to the side to save them from becoming mush. And although I thought I would be attacking the fries with such setup, they were actually the last item I was interested in eating.
The flavor of their burger is awesomely addictive. It’s buttery deliciousness. That combined with their maple bacon will leave you speechless. Even my husband was reaching over to steal a couple of bites from this mountain of decadence.
Being that this is a Gastropub and I think they pride themselves on quality, when it came time for dessert, we were informed they were out of their bread pudding until further notice. While this concept might anger some (how do you run out of something on your menu?), to me this is a sign of quality over quantity. I like the idea of fresh ingredients so once the item is out, it’s out. And this not only translated into dessert but also with their daily specials and certain entrées.
Once we considered our options, the husband wanted a good old chocolate shake. Served in a frosty goblet, this giant-sized shake of pure chocolate was right on track with my decadent burger bowl. Using a straw was not an option with its thick but smooth texture.
Feeling full and cozy, it was a good rainy Sunday to be in a pub atmosphere. Made you wish it wasn’t Sunday so we could stay and linger over a few more beverages to really take advantage of this pub. No matter the weather, BRC makes it worth your while with flavorful options in abundant proportions. A definite bang for your buck!

519 SHEPHERD DR.
Houston, TX 77007
713.861.2233 | www.brcgastropub.com

Hours:
Lunch: Monday-Friday 11am-2pm
Dinner: Sunday-Saturday 5pm-until
the last person leaves
Brunch: Saturday-Sunday 10am-2pm
Happy Hour: Monday-Friday 4pm-6pm

MENU SELECTIONS
salad+soup
• Roast Brisket Chef’s Salad sliced brisket, egg, blue cheese, cherry tomato, torn basil, grilled onion, sweet jalapeno $13.50
• New England Clam & Corn ‘Milk’ Chowder
bacon, butter, thyme, potato, oyster crackers $6
platters
• Jumbo Lump Crab Cake (6oz.)
Chesapeake-style, creamy malted slaw,
remoulade sauce $20.50
• Smoked Salt Flank Steak
garlic-cream smashed red potatoes, wilted spicy spinach $19.5
• Jalapeno Potato Chip Chicken Fried Steak
beef tenderloin, cream gravy, fries, sweet jalapenos $19.75
• BRC Pub Burger marinated tomato,
mapley bacon, aged cheddar, iceberg, really
nice sauce $11.25
• Big MacCock- BRC Pub Burger, English muffin, pork roll, fried egg $13.25
• Burger Sliders (3)- mustard, ketchup, pickle, onion, american cheese $12.75

By Beatrice Allen
Photography by Kim Coffman

Evolution of a House

1. gulf grouper sliders | 2. cocktails | 3. interior

With hours starting at 7am thru 2am they even have you covered should you get hungry.
Located in what used to house a bank and at one point a ballet studio, this repurposed structure has been outfitted with touches that pay homage to its name with the help from the team at Installations. Beautiful antique pieces adorn the walls and have also been fashioned into tables (standard size, bar height and coffee height) as well as chairs, lighting fixtures and even the sliding door handle of the private room. The décor is a beautiful display of usable artifacts that not only inspire but help create a comfortable unique atmosphere.
We settled into a chocolate leather tufted banquette with round marble tabletop fastened to an antique steel base. During the day, natural light floods thru the white windowpanes to light the space.
Once seated, we ordered their peach tea with sweetener since their teas are not pre-sweetened. Our waitress offered us some simple syrup as it would blend more easily than sugar. She presented us with a small beaker (loved that) with just a bit so we wouldn’t over do it. And she was right, it mixes smoothly and a bit goes a long way. Their knowledgeable and helpful staff is a great addition when maneuvering your way thru a new dining experience.
Although their menu may seem limited to some, I personally like the toned down options. It makes decision-making that much easier. After speaking with owner Chris Cusack, expect menu changes to come for fall. Items change with the season and a more expanded but still simple version is on the horizon. A change that excites this young entrepreneur.
From their lunch menu, I had their free range lemon chicken sandwich. A grilled chicken breast is sandwiched with sautéed spinach, feta cream and olive tapenade on a delicious challah roll. It’s a great savory, light sandwich that is perfect for lunch without that dragging you down feeling. Served with their house frites or a house salad, I opted for their salad. A vibrant and unique salad made of spinach, grape tomatoes, radish slices, strawberry slices, blueberries and toasted walnuts is lightly dressed in a peach vinaigrette. This is the most original house salad I’ve come across in years that doesn’t consist of romaine or iceberg lettuce. It was enjoyable to say the least.
I couldn’t resist their house-baked chocolate chip pecan cookie for a sweet cap. A crispy but warm and gooey round ends the meal off in a sweet but salty delight. The pecan balances the chocolate sweetness with its nuttiness so you’re not overwhelmed with sugar.
The attention to detail has not been overlooked at Down House. At the end of our meal, our check arrived sandwiched in between the pages of Darwin’s Lost World. A more fitting ending to an enjoyable meal could not be more appropriate. Get lost in the details for breakfast, lunch or dinner at Down House.

MENU SELECTIONS
salad
• tomato salad – heirloom tomatoes, Thai basil pesto, ricotta cheese with aged balsamic vinegar and walnut oil $7
• bibb salad – Boston bibb lettuce, summer beans, corn, red peppers, cherry tomatoes, poblanos and cucumbers with preserved lemon and poppy seed vinaigrette $7
sandwich
served with pickled veggies and frites or house salad substitute soup du jour +2
• Gouda, chèvre, beefsteak tomato, Guinness beer butter on rye $9
• longhorn burger- Texas gold cheddar, arugula, tomato, house-made mustard or aioli $11 (add slab bacon +$2)
• five-spice pork belly- jalapeño slaw, sriracha on a toasted bun $10
• market fish taco – we source the freshest fish around to create two incredible tacos; see your host for today’s offering *Market Price
sweet
• sorbet – mango, blackberry $4
• gelato – lemon pistachio, Texas honey,
Nutella $4

1801 Yale St. | Houston, TX 77008
713.864.3696|www.downhousehouston.com

Hours: 7am-2am daily

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman

PUTTING THE “X” IN TEXANO OR TEXICAN

3. ambassodor bar

camarones enchipotlados

We’re in Texas. While others dream of having Tex-Mex food, Chef Jonathon Jones dreams of introducing the masses to interior Mexican food that he grew up enjoying. It’s NOT Tex-Mex. It’s Nuevo Texano cuisine – Mexican food that has been influenced by Houston Texas or, as he likes to put it, “Mexican with Texas attitude.” Hailing from La Porte, his Spanish is better than most Mexican descendants and his familiarity of the culture and food is even more surprising. It’s really no wonder the passion he conveys about the food and the menu. It is an extension of who he is. From using authentic Mexican spices, chilies, like using old school techniques to sticking pigs feet (authentic Mexican trick) in his Posole, Jones has done his work and he’s ready to teach a thing or two to the masses about authentic Mexican foods with a dash of H-Town thrown in the mix.

Even the interior has been touched with this Texano attitude. From the dining room downstairs to the Ambassador bar upstairs, new murals, art and fabrics make this location one of a kind. Artist Gonzo has made magic out of the Ambassador bar adorning not only the “walls” but also the floor. An old school “Ambassador” RV split in half acts like “taco truck” service for easy food upstairs. High vintage Mexican beer bar tables make for easy seating for this cool original setting. Downstairs tables are stenciled with roses and one lonely banquette in the corner is covered in Mexican senorita fabric that is drool worthy. My lunch visit found me at a corner rose-stenciled table in doors, retreating from the oppressive heat. As I took in the menu I could not help but be overwhelmed with decisions. The majority of the menu is familiar to me from having such dishes my entire life. The fact that I get to enjoy them at a restaurant is thrilling! When I would visit my grandmother in Guadalajara, after dinner she would make the easiest dessert to enjoy with some coffee. A bolillo (think Mexican baguette bread) is cut in half and toasted with butter and sugar. My Dad would make a savory version with refried pinto beans and cheese as a snack. When I saw these Molletes on the menu, it was a must try. Chef Jones takes it up a notch by adding meat to his open-faced bolillo covered in black beans and queso Chihuahua. Your choice of chorizo, fajita or grilled chicken is then topped with pico de gallo. Why we haven’t started doing this in all my years of eating molletes is beyond me! This would make it a rounded out meal for some. It’s like an open-faced sandwich with everything melting onto each other and into the bread. Grandma would be proud. In the Masa Snacks section, the Sopes with crab guacamole and rajas as well as the intriguing black bean gordita were up next. Masa is corn dough and it is used a lot in Mexican cooking. This section is a compilation of some of the snacks we make with this dough. Sopes are grilled masa cakes. The texture can be very hard to attain. It should be firm, not so much hard or soft. Chef Jones’ adult size (usually they are much-smaller, personal sized) rendition is filled with a guacamole that incorporates crab into the actual mix, rajas (a mild pepper) atop lettuce and pico de gallo, topped with queso fresco and crema Mexicana (sour cream). This as a starter is sharable or if you’re looking for a light meal, this could work too. The only way to describe the black bean gordita is like a “cloud” of black bean. It’s a baffling sight really. A homemade deep fried black bean masa puff is served with sweet smoky spicy salsa negra and local-made queso cotija. It might not be the most aesthetically pleasing looking puff but the taste is innovative Mexican. We could not get enough of this puff with the smoky sauce with a kick. It’s an inventive method with simple but layered flavors. Under the Enchiladas section I nearly shed a tear when I saw Tortillas enfrijoladas. This is also a staple dish and one of my favorites. If I go to Mom’s house, she’s making this for me to this day. Although it’s a minimal amount of ingredients and the technique is simple, getting the tortilla just right without having it fall apart in the beans is a lot harder than one might imagine. I have had soggy, ruined tortillas a number of times. The Double XX version is folded tortillas dipped in a Oaxacan black bean sauce, topped with queso fresco, pico de gallo, salsa aguacate (avocado) and homemade crema Mexicana (sour cream). It’s like Mom’s gift to the world. A vegetarian comfort delight that is easy but tasty. For brunch, they take this staple and add some scrambled eggs. We never tried this at home but the idea is sheer genius. It takes the dish from an easy dinner to an easy brunch in seconds. After reading rave review over Jones’ fish tacos due to his authentic technique of cooking the fish in a banana leaf, we had to jump on the bandwagon. Listed under El Double XX Platos Machos, the Fish Tacos Tikin Xic is the Chef’s selection of Gulf Coast fresh fish marinated with Yucatecan Achiote and orange, steamed in Hoja de Platano accompanied with salsa habanera, pico de gallo served with a side of corn tortillas, a salad of jicama, pepino (cucumber), a mound of arroz (rice), chile torreados (chilies that have been pan seared for heat) for garnishing your taco and lime. This isn’t a fried fish taco that could be mistaken for who knows what. This is the real deal. Beautifully steamed, tender fish, covered in spice is hidden in the banana leaf, for you to unwrap, place in a corn tortilla and garnish with the medley on your plate. They’re light, flavorful, refreshing fish tacos prepared gourmet style.

Xuco Xicana is introducing authentic dishes with Chef Jonathon Jones’ innovative touches we have seen him grace at various establishments. His passion, his technique, his know-how is unparallel when it comes to interior Mexican dishes. His intuition that guides him into adding those Houston/Texas touches to each recipe he masters is a force to be reckoned with. And adding promising young chef Brandon Fisch, formerly of Yelapa, to his team can only make the deal that much sweeter. Look for their new Taqueria style lunch menu (tacos and tortas) and an all-day, every day, margarita happy hour from 11am to 7pm. Fear not, El Patio followers, El Patio Blues (ritas) remain intact, unchanged.

el xuco chori-burger

botanas + sopa

• • “XX” Jalisco Hot Wangs Crispy wangs tossed in Jalisco spiced vinegar hot sauce, sesame and Queso Fresco. With creamy cilantro sauce, jicama y pepino
• • Molotes Como MeXican Hot Pockets
• • Pozole Pork stew, guajillo chile broth, hominy. Side Garnish: cilantro, onion, chile, radish, cabbage, orégano, tostada, aguacateall tacos
• • Carnitas pork slowly simmered in lard, chiles, cinnamon, garlic and orange
• • Chihuahua Cheese Enchiladas Rolled corn tortillas stuffed with queso Chihuahua, baked in chile Ancho & Guajillo salsa “Roja”, topped with queso fresco and minced onion, with beans and rice.el xx platos machos• Carne Guisada Beef shoulder stewed with chiles, garlic, potato and tomato, with arroz MeXicana y frijoles, served with Home Made flour tortillas• EL Xuco Chori-Burger! Home Made ½ lb. patty of Local chorizo and ground chuck on bolillo with, black beans, mayonnaise, queso Chihuahua, avocado, pico de gallo and TeXican slaw!

XUCO XICANA [formerly el patio]Houston, TX 77006713.523.8181 | www.elpatio.com

Hours:Tuesday –Thursday/ Sunday 11am-10pmFriday/ Saturday 11am-11pmHappy Hour 11am-7 Tues-Sun

By Beatrice Allen

Photography by Omar Mejia
 

Boada 
where the REAL chef is in the kitchen!

If you are looking for premier chef Arturo Boada (or his fare) at Arturo’s Italian Uptown, then you are looking in the wrong place. You won’t find either him or his fare at that location. Who knows what you will find, to be honest. As quickly as he split, he resurrected in another location by his surname Boada.
Located in a quaint space off Del Monte, this casual European bistro-like setting is anything but casual. The fare is first class – what we are used to seeing come from Arturo minus the fuss.
Red banquettes line a wall and white tablecloths cover the dining space. The walls are a neutral with amber mosaic backsplash along the kitchen wall surrounding the wood-burning oven, appropriately painted with flames surrounding the opening. At night the glitter effect on the amber mosaic creates a romantic glow while the window frames create the illusion of argyle wallpaper on the walls. The bar is up front and center peering into the kitchen and the oven. Tables are available outside for dining al fresco.
Our dinner at 7:30pm on a Tuesday night saw a steady stream of diners coming and going through the night. Apparently, those with their ear to the street know where to find Arturo’s treats.
The menu combines his best sellers from Solero’s tapas, Beso, Italian dishes and new innovative delights.
We were more than thrilled to see the return of his fish tacos under the Tapas along with his impeccable papas bravas.

Without fail the three snapper taquitos with a Serrano garlic pepper sauce and cilantro are nostalgia in a mini-tortilla. If you are longing to know what an authentic taco from Mexico would taste and most likely look like, this is it. Minus the meat that is. All of these components attain that grilled flavor that we long for. A squeeze of lime and it’s as if I’m transported to Mexico. Amazing.
We can’t mention the tacos without also giving credit to his papas bravas. The first time I ever tasted this dish was at an Arturo establishment. Chunks of potato are served with mushroom, sausage and red pepper for a spicy punch.
His newbies carved a place in my heart instantly. Especially when it comes to the fresh mussels sautéed in a tomatillo/jalapeno/cilantro concoction. Oh, holy cow! It’s finger-licking, bread-dipping, spoon-sipping deliciousness! It’s not as spicy as you would imagine. Slices of jalapeno and halves of tomatillo are swimming in this buttery sauce along with the mussels perfect for scooping.

On the other hand we tried the Camarones Henesy en Hamaca and were impressed with a completely different spectrum of seasoning. Shrimp is sautéed with hearts of palm, tomato, cilantro in a soy-ginger sauce all on a bed of sweet plantains. The best bite is getting a bit of plantain, shrimp, tomato and a piece of palm all drenched in the sauce, it’s amazing. Who knew shrimp and plantain worked so well together!

In order to really assess Arturo’s talent we still needed to try some meat. Being that he has seafood down to a science (his ceviche is one of the freshest, simple, cleanest there is in the city), his preparation of meat is equally on par. The Beef Blue comes with a 4oz filet nestled on top of tomato slices covered in blue cheese sprinkles and crispy thin onion rings. The meat is grilled to tender perfection and surprisingly this little nugget of meat is a beautiful cut. You would assume such a small portion wouldn’t be the best but you’d be wrong. If a meat craving is what you have, this is a great decent-sized, expertly prepared filet to indulge.

I couldn’t resist the Grilled Sashimi grade tuna. All of my favorite ingredients combined appear on the menu in one dish! Arugula is arranged atop the filet of tuna with grape tomatoes and it’s all lightly dressed in a subtly hinted truffle oil lemon drizzle. The dish is extremely light but very satisfying. Even the men, who I’ve noticed aren’t as fond of truffle oil as we women, couldn’t resist this light combination. It’s ideal for these upcoming warmer months when all you crave is something light but filling and equally refreshing in taste.

But wait! We still indulged in dessert. If you haven’t tried Arturo’s banana invention, you have not lived. It’s like bananas and cinnamon rolls combine to have a baby. Bananas that are filled with cinnamon are wrapped in the lightest crust and then served cut open on a plate with a cinnamon drizzle. I’m not big on warm bananas or having them in my dessert but this goes above all those convictions. This is cinnamon roll deceiving! It’s crunchy, not overly mushy at all, and cinnamon goodness.

So let me reiterate, if you are looking for Premier Chef Arturo Boada or his fare, do yourself a favor and head in the right direction, 6510 Del Monte. He and his attentive staff are waiting to welcome and astound you!

SAMPLE MENU SELECTIONS

salad

• Sliced Grilled Beef mixed greens, red apple,

fresh mozzarella, walnuts, tomato, avocado

drizzled with balsamic glaze 16.50

• Whole Nine Yards shrimp, chicken, smoked

salmon, artichoke, tomato, avocado, hearts of

palm, cooked egg, sweet peas in a champagne

dressing 18.50 pizza

• Carnitas charred salsa, asadero cheese, onion,

fresh cilantro 14

• Italian Sausage fresh fennel, spicy diavola

sausage 14 pasta

• Fettuccine and Shrimp in a creamy

cilantro pesto 19.50

• Rigatoni grilled chicken, sweet peas, mushroom,

prosciutto, suga rosa sauce 18.50

seafood+meat

• Snapper al Fresco sautéed with fresh tomato,

basil and garlic finished with capers and white

wine topped with jumbo lump crab meat 28.50

• Grilled 8oz Beef Filet 32.50

• Grilled 16oz NY Strip 49.50

NOTE: Choose your sauce: Black Peppercorn, Wild Mushroom or Chimichurri

1. grilled salmon

2. camarones henesy en hamaca

3. carnitas pizza

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman

FREE FALLING…FOR BRUNCH!

1. shawn panter | 2. freebirds libby vw 3. hybrid burrito | 4. taco combo | 5. shepherd plaza location

You’ve all heard the term Sunday Funday, and some of you may have experienced this “ride” as well. It can be long and very “bumpy.” From club music blaring in the daylight hours, high heels and outfits that shouldn’t been seen in the daylight, this version might be too hardcore for some just looking to chill…with a bottomless mimosa option and a tab that doesn’t resemble bottle service on a Saturday night.

In comes Freebirds World Burrito Shepherd Plaza to the rescue. Aside from normally being a very relaxed place to spend hours of your day, they joined in on the brunch love with their Unplugged Weekend Brunch, this laid-back, enjoyable attitude with drink specials and a meal all under $15 plus live acoustic music by local and national artists.

In comes Freebirds World Burrito Shepherd Plaza to the rescue. Aside from normally being a very relaxed place to spend hours of your day, they joined in on the brunch love with their Unplugged Weekend Brunch, this laid-back, enjoyable attitude with drink specials and a meal all under $15 plus live acoustic music by local and national artists.

Both their full menu and brunch menu are available during this time. What’s on their brunch menu? The normal shell, a burrito, taco combo, bowl, etc., with your choice of breakfast fillings, i.e., eggs, chorizo, their brown sugar n’ spice bacon, hash browns plus the usual cheese, beans, toppings galore and salsas. But the normal is anything but if you haven’t visited Freebirds before.

Your tortilla could be flour, corn, spinach, cayenne or whole wheat. Same goes for the tacos except you also get the option of hard or soft corn tortilla. Fillings like slow-roasted carnitas, fire-grilled chicken or steak to fresh veggies make your burrito, quesadilla, nachos, burrito bowl, freedom salad or taco even more extraordinary.

Personalize your particular dish with “freebies” like white or red onion, tomato, pico de gallo, jalapenos, cilantro, lettuce, roasted peppers and onions, roasted garlic, homemade corn salsa, poblano salsa and more. Add extras like sour cream, guacamole, queso or avocado, and your dish could be as dressed up or down as you want it.

And we have yet to add a sauce! From calm to feisty, picking your spice level is foolproof.  Fresh squeezed lime juice starts the scale  at 0 with salsa, bad *ss BBQ, mild tomatillo, hot tomatillo, their death sauce and Habanero rounding out the scale at 10+ for heat. Work up a tolerance with this scale on your visits. Before you know it, that Habanero will be on a level 2 to you.

Unsure of what you feel like that day, let your eyes do the choosing. From their Hybrid to the Super Monster (can weigh up to 7lbs!) size options in burritos, all appetites are covered.  With assembly-line style ordering you can see all the fresh ingredients as they go into your “shell” of choice. Add more as you see fit. There is no wrong combination. With this many options, your choices are endless. Add chips and a fountain drink and you have a fresh, gourmet meal at a minimal price. That can’t be beat.

But on the weekends it can! Add the relaxed atmosphere with unplugged musical acts and $2 drink specials or $8 Monster Mimosa to your delicious customized meal. Rumor has it national acts like Barenaked Ladies have dropped in for surprise sets as well as others.

Their Unplugged Brunch is only fitting for a restaurant that embodies music and embraces that 60’s free spirit with music lyrics on the walls that reverberate through the speakers as their iconic Statue of Liberty aka “Libby” rides a motorcycle in the background. Freebirds brings you the freedom of choice, chilling and music for all!

Best of all, no dress code or bouncer at the door! Free fall into FREEBIRDS!

3745 Greenbriar [Shepherd Plaza]

Houston, TX 77027

713.524.0621 | www.freebirds.com

Hours:

Monday–Thursday: 11am-10pm

Friday: 11am-11pm

Saturday 10am-11pm

Sunday: 10am-10pm

Weekend Brunch: Sat-Sun 10am-4pm

HOW TO EAT YOUR BURRITO

this is only a suggestion. it’s a free country. eat it any way you like.

• Lightly pull the foil from one end of

your burrito.

• Peel off about 2 inches of foil and enjoy.

• Repeat as necessary to finish.

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman