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CLUB REVIEW | may 2012

 The hay merchant

the wait is over…

Unless you live out in amber fields of grain, it’s very likely you know who cocktail geniuses Bobby Heugel and Kevin Floyd are.  Don’t ring a bell?  How about a little place called Anvil Bar and Refuge?  Yes, that Anvil.  Now, take the detail, understanding and utter craft of Anvil but replace those shelves of bottles with a wall of taps and what do we have…The! Hay! Merchant!

 

Wanting to add more roots in one of the most historic areas of Houston, our resident mixologists took a gamble on the shuttered Chances bar and embarked on a meticulous renovation. Located on the bend down in Montrose (1100 Westheimer Road) we now have Underbelly on one side, The Hay Merchant on the other, a perfect synthesis in the redone space. You probably already knew this though because everyone in town was writing about it. Houston foodies were collectively salivating for the day that the creative team of Floyd and Chef Antoine Ware (of Catalan and Brasserie 19 fame) opened their doors to let you inside their sudsy homage to Houston past. Salvation finally came and as the Field of Dreams taught us … if you build it, he will come. Get the reference and get here early because this place is hoppin’…yes, I did.

The Hay Merchant just wants to fit in. So much so, they secured two generous parking lots in an area of town that has sparse excess parking. Bike racks? Right out front and well used! Should you not care for either of these options, they have valet ready to whisk away the Benz to a safe and happy lot just around the corner. All this is in an effort to coexist with the surrounding borough and keep everyone happy, no doubt an admirable cause, and one that took a lot of effort.

So here you are, and you are ready to drink! But first, the building. Visually striking, the interior is a tasteful use of wood and metal, raw masonry, and check out those doors; this place just gives off that “like a boss” vibe. Tributes to the city are tossed all around the bar.  A manhole cover and actual paver bricks from Houston streets of yore? Check. Handmade taps? Check. Lots of tables inside, but this place is already foaming over. Ha. The patio tables are probably full too, but plenty of standing room for enjoying views of the downtown skyline. Beer?! Okay, okay.  Beer enthusiasts unite! 80-yes-80 carefully selected beers are on tap!  8-0! Served in the appropriate glassware and kegs meticulously stored at the correct temperature…The Hay Merchant is ready to serve you, impeccably so, some of the best craft beers available.  Follow the organized and detail rich menu or just ask if you need some guidance. This place is an honest-to-goodness journey through craft beer that happily wants to help you step outside the commercial beer box. There is no going bock now.  Be adventurous, and keep that sense of humor – much needed water is served in repurposed King Cobra malt liquor 40oz bottles.

Well, you finally got a table so don’t wait any lager!  Flip over that beer menu. “Just Try It”, “Snacky Things” and “You Know You Want It” divvy up the food offerings so settle in and enjoy some of the delights Chef Ware’s kitchen has to offer!  Good luck ordering just one. Great food pairs well with beer, you know?! This menu provides comfort favorites and some interesting outliers – it might just be some of the best food in a bar (read not bar food) the city has to offer.

Maybe you don’t like crowds? Noise hurts your ears? You can always take beer home in your own growler or house branded ones available for purchase. Kegs to go? Yes! Read it and wheat!

Hop in soon my friends. Yeah, I couldn’t help it.

 

1100 westheimer rd. | houston, tx 77006

713.528.9805 | www.haymerchant.com

By Michael Cook | Photography by Daniel Ortiz

BEA HERE NOW | may 2012

Holy Heat!

How did it become so hot so fast? We skipped over spring and dove head first into summer. But I’m not complaining. I will take sunshine over clouds any day! Plus the sunshine brings everyone out to dine on patios, to the biking/walking trails, having picnics, sitting by pools – you name it and someone is out enjoying the day. All the movement makes the city seem alive and vibrant. And it wakes up a desire to get out there and do something myself as well. This month I indulged in Italian not once but twice, finally fulfilled a craving and have been spoiled weekly by the presence of a food truck.

A salad dreams are made of! 

Ruggles Green

2311 West Alabama

713.533.0777  www.rugglesgreen.com

I dream of this grilled Atlantic salmon salad. Mixed field greens, romaine, shredded carrots, farmers market boiled eggs, sourdough parmesan croutons and queso fresco are tossed in mango ranch dressing and topped with chipotle honey-seared salmon fillet. It’s a wonderful balance of sweet, savory and mild spice. It’s no surprise they are always so busy!

 

A beautiful marriage of cheese and cake.

Dolce Vita Pizzeria Enoteca

500 Westheimer Rd. 713.520.8222

www.dolcevitahouston.com

Their rendition of strawberry cheesecake is delicious. Literally cake and cheese are layered with strawberry preserves and covered with caramel sauce. I felt like I got surprised with this. I not only got cake but also cheese! It’s genius! Pasta every day equals one happy girl.

 

Coppa Ristorante Italiano

5555 Washington 713.426.4260

www,copparistorante.com

There is nothing like their spaghetti carbonara. Forget calories and your waistline; you will not regret the decision. If you need to feel better about this, order one to share or as an appetizer so everyone gets a few bites. Salami bits, egg yolk and parmesan are mixed into the spaghetti, and they finish it off with parmesan cream poured atop the pasta tableside. Another must try – their crispy prosciutto pizza. Whipped mortadella, parmesan, black olives and arugula are spread atop a thin crust and crisped to perfection. We skipped the black olives on our version. The thin strips of crispy prosciutto with the arugula make it out of this world!

 

Life changing sandwich/bread. 

BanhMieria

@BanhMieria on Twitter

www.banhmieria.com

We’ve had the luxury of having this food truck park outside our offices every Tuesday for a couple months now. I say luxury because the moment you taste their bread you will never be able to eat regular bread again. Their baguette roll is homemade and you can taste it! It’s soft, fresh, warm deliciousness in every bite. And we aren’t even on to the actual sandwich! My preference from BBQ pork, beef, tofu or shredded chicken is the chicken. It’s finely shredded and stuffed into said bread with a veggie mix of carrot, cucumber, cilantro and jalapeno – and their homemade garlic mayo plus the veggies has this vinegar sweetness that I can’t get enough of. That’s why I order mine with extra veggies.

 

By Beatrice Allen

NEW RESTAURANTS | may 2012

NO BORDERS TRUCK

www.sylviasenchiladakitchen.com

CUISINE A TASTE OF RIO GRANDE VALLEY

 

Although this truck no longer prowls the street and is strictly for private events, it was at such an event that we got to taste their fare. One taste and we decided we had to let you know about it. And even if you miss the truck, there’s a surprise in store. This Tex-Mex haven on wheels was offering a taco plate that came with two tacos, rice and beans (options were chicken fajita, beef fajita and pork tenderloin); an enchilada plate served with rice and beans with enchiladas of cheese, chicken or spinach; and finally a Texas torta with smoked turkey breast on jalapeno sourdough bread with guacamole on the side. For a side or starters, they had chili con queso or guacamole with chips. I went with the spinach enchiladas: Two fresh sautéed spinach enchiladas come smothered in tomatillo sauce with a whopping serving of rice and beans. It’s light but incredibly flavorful even without the cheese factor. It’s an amazingly healthy serving size. That rings up for $8. It’s the most bang for my buck I’ve seen from a truck yet. Now for the surprise part: If you don’t have a reason or need for the rental of this food truck, their delicious fare and truck is the brainchild of Sylvia’s Enchiladas! Head over to either of her locations to taste her famous enchiladas or tacos.

 

CONVIVIO
700 SOUTH DURHAM DR.

www.conviviohouston.com | 832.360.1750

CUISINE spanish

CHEF emilio chavez

After housing a number of various businesses, it looks like this spot has finally nailed down a keeper. Convivio serves Spanish tapas plus entrées for the hungry. The light airy space serves up authentic fare. Now serving lunch from 11:30am-2:30pm, it’s the ideal time along with their happy hour (5-7pm) to taste what their menu has to offer. On our stop for their lunch debut we indulged on their albondigas Convivio, hamburguesitas and the tortilla de patatas. All our dishes were served at the same time at our request. The albondigas (meatballs) made of beef and pork come in a spicy tomato concasse. It resembles more of a smooth sauce (rather than a diced salsa) that was perfect for dipping everything from our fries to the tortilla in. The spice is mild as well, so fear not. The hamburguesitas (sliders, two) are made from Kobe beef in a beer sauce served with caramelized onions and confit. They are a great size to split and with its buttery richness,

 

Photography by Plum Tree Studios

 

it might not be a bad idea if you’re heading back to work afterward. Their tortilla de patatas is the best I’ve ever had. New potatoes, Vidalia onions and olive oil make up this simple classic. And although simple, perfecting the right balance of these ingredients makes all the difference in the world. The potato and onion are subtle; they blend together and you’re never overpowered by either ingredient in each bite. Make Convivio a stop for lunch and/or happy hour and you won’t be disappointed.

 

Katsuya by Starck- 2800 Kirby Dr

Photography by Ryan Forbes

www.sbe.com/katsuya | 713.590.2800

CUISINE Japanese

CHEF Katsuya Uechi

The highly anticipated import from California has officially opened its doors in super hot West Avenue. The modern, quirky, sexy space is true to Starck fashion. Oversized images of lips and eyes adorn the walls in the main dining room while at first step into the space the bar area is separated with those quirky yet cute good luck kitties (several of them) in lit cube, waist-high pedestals. To the right of the bar is their lounge area with plush rugs and seating. Once seated in the main dining room, music mixes with the clientele banter making this an ideal spot to start your evening. This infectious vibe rings true even on a Tuesday. We ordered several plates to share and they come out when ready in no order. For starters we had their popular, yellowtail sashimi with jalapeno. Fresh yellowtail, ponzu and jalapeno prove to be light and refreshing. We couldn’t resist the creamy rock shrimp. Crispy bite size rock shrimp are tossed in chef’s spicy creamy sauce. It’s addicting. Followed with the Katsuya ceviche. A light and refreshing blend of sashimi and citrus ponzu that is more creamy than the yellowtail ponzu. We couldn’t leave without ordering their signature dish, the miso marinated black cod. I wouldn’t normally jump for cod but this is truly prepared wonderfully. They use a sweet miso and bake the cod to “deliver unparalleled flavor.” I couldn’t say it better myself. Other notables we tried are their Robata yellowtail collar and their robata avocado. Both prepared simply but deliciously. Be aware sushi isn’t cheap. It rarely is and this is no exception but entirely worth the experience, the quality and the atmosphere.

 

By Beatrice Allen

RESTAURANT NEWS email us at

b.valencia@002mag.com

DINE WRITE | may 2012

NOT YOUR TYPICAL COWBOY

Located off Westheimer, behind an iron veil, lies a place that thrives on tradition. Chama Gaúcha will not only teach you a thing or two about Brazilian Steakhouses but they will also show just what exceptional service should be.

First we need to discuss the meaning behind the name. Chama, meaning flame in Portuguese, is the main element at a Brazilian Steakhouse. Everything is kissed by flame. This fire is also indicative of the passion for the culture and tradition the gauchos (Brazilian cowboys) intend to preserve.

Seated in their expansive dining room with murals of these gauchos on the wall with phrases in Portuguese plus the most put together salad bar, your experience is just beginning.

The moment you are seated, your server greets you, asks you what type of water and beverage you’d like. He then explains to you the manner of dining. You have a card, the size of a coaster with their logo on both sides; one side is red, the other green. When your card sits face up on the red, it means stop or pause; the green means go. This is for their gauchos who will be parading around the various cuts of meat, to know if you would like more or need a break.

Ribeye

If you like lemonade, I highly recommend it. It’s frothy and made on site. It’s the best lemonade I’ve had that wasn’t prepared at home. Plus, they give you refills throughout the meal.

But before you even get into the meat parade, as I like to call it, you begin with the salad bar. There is everything from prepared salad dressings and all to build your own salad. Cured meats, cheeses, vegetables (ranging from broccoli, asparagus, green beans, beets plus tabouleh, chicken salad and a pasta salad to a station with black beans and rice) round out your choices to start.

On this visit I had to try the rice and black beans plus some of their buffalo cheese balls and sundried tomatoes. (The rice has meat in it so beware, as do the black beans.) It’s a warm and hearty way to start your meal. The quality of produce is impeccable, with servers switching out bowls and platters to make sure everything looks full and beautiful to eat.

From there it was time to start our parade. With the flip of my card, I was presented with sirloins of all sorts, rib eye, filet, beef ribs, chicken, sausage and more. Once you start with the meats you also will get a serving of mashed potatoes, bananas, fried yucca and a little bread basket with the softest bread.

The food doesn’t stop coming until you flip that little card over to red. Neither does their service. My glass was never empty, my empty plate never lingered on the table too long, anything I needed came at once. There are eyes constantly on your table.

From their meat spread my most notables were their house specialty Picanha, the prime cut of the sirloin; the filet mignon is perfection as well, with you still being able to choose the temperature of your choice with each cut. If they don’t have it, they will prepare one for you. Other sirloin cuts, the Alcatra and Fraldinha, are both full of flavor and lean. The Alcatra cut from the top sirloin is more tender while the Fraldinha cut from the bottom is one of their most flavorful while having this crispy sear. Finding your favorite will be no easy task. Repeat tasting is encouraged to do so.

Sufficiently full with our entrée part of the meal, we couldn’t pass up coffee and dessert. After being told a litany of desserts, we went with the traditional route, the papaya cream. Papaya is blended with ice cream to form this smooth, but not milkshake, consistency. You then add crème de cassis berry liqueur on top, mix it in and prepare to be amazed. Not fully sold on this decision in the beginning, I was 100% delighted after the first spoonful.

All the succulent, juicy meat you can imagine, plus dessert, and including service that should be the standard everywhere – for around $30 at lunch. That’s what they’re serving at Chama Gaúcha. It’s your money’s worth plus more.

 

MENU SELECTIONS

the meats

• Cordeiro- Flavorful leg of lamb or rack of lamb seasoned to perfection.

• Ribeye- A favorite among many, simply served with a light dusting of sea salt.

• Costela e Lombo de Porco- Succulent rack of pork ribs, or from the pork loin, sizzling  with flavor. Also served dusted with parmesan.

• Frango- Choose from marinated chicken  legs or bacon-wrapped chicken breast

• Costela- The beef rib. The rich marbling  provides both the flavor and texture.

• Picanha- The house’s specialty. The prime  cut of the sirloin.

• Filet Mignon- The most popular cut, served wrapped in bacon or choose bacon-wrapped chicken breast.

• Alcatra- Cut from the top sirloin, this piece

of meat is tender and full of flavor.

• Fraldinha- The bottom sirloin. One of the  most flavorful cuts.

Hours

Monday – Thursday, 11:30am–2:30pm, 5–10pm

Friday, 11:30am–2:30pm, 5–10:30pm

Saturday, 4:30–10:30pm

Sunday 12–2:30pm, 4–9pm

 

CHAMA GAúCHA 5865 WESTHEIMER RD. HOUSTON, TX 77057 713.224.9500 | www.chamagaucha.com

 

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Fulton Davenport

THE CHEF’S SPECIAL | may 2012

chef aquiles chavez restaurant La Fisheria | cuisine mexican coastal cuisine 4705 Inker Street | Houston, TX 77007 | 713.802.1712 |  www.lafisheriahouston.com | www.aquileschavez.com.mx

Favorite late night spot for a bite?

The backyard of the restaurant (where I drink

beers with my cooks after a hard, busy day).

Best breakfast?

Laredo Taqueria (in The Heights).

Best brunch?

Hugo’s.

What ingredient can you not live without in the kitchen and why?

Salt from San Felipe in Baja, Mexico.  Because it gives sustenance to everything – even life itself.

What utensil can you not live without?

My colorful Birkenstock shoes!

What’s your pet peeve?

Reggaeton music.

Favorite affordable wine?

Mariatinto Mexican wine (from Baja).

Favorite place for dessert?

Churros with homemade chocolate sauce from La Fisheria.

Who are your favorite chef, restaurant and dish?

Chef Arturo Fernandez from Raiz in Mexico City.

La Otra Cochinita Pibil (sous vide suckling pig with recado rojo marinated in a plantain puree).

Is there a food you won’t eat?

I saw a documentary in Africa with Swahilis eating a gelatinous milk with blood shaken into it. I decided that was something I would not eat. Otherwise I eat everything else in the world.

Do you have a cookbook published?

YES: La Cocina y Las Locuras de Aquiles (The Kitchen & Crazy Thoughts of Aquiles Chavez).

What is your comfort food? Italian food…especially when you need a hug. Patrenella’s is favorite in Houston.

Do you use a recipe or wing it?

I don’t use recipes because I believe you can forget the recipes but you can never forget the technique. And I follow the technique passionately.

What do you see as the next food trend? Fancy authentic Mexican food from a food truck. It’s going to be very bizarre!

At home, what do you keep on hand to serve drop-in guests?

Mexican wine, mezcal, chocolate and coffee.

What would people be surprised to find in your home refrigerator?

Pepperidge Farm Goldfish (yes, in my refrigerator).

What magazine cover, other than 002’s, would you like to be featured on? Rolling Stone.

Last but not least, tell us your worst client experience?  

Trying to cook a banquet-style dinner in a private home and the gas in their stove just went out. We asked the neighbors to use their kitchen and cooked the entire meal from the kitchen next door.

 

Favorite sandwich Queso de puerco

Favorite ice cream mix-in/topping I like it plain.

Favorite truck food Tostadas de mariscos de La Guerrense by Sabina Bandera in Ensenada Baja, California, Mexico

Favorite picnic spot Hermann Park

Favorite spot to exercise/run Memorial Park

 

Photography by Jaime Lagdameo

THE CHEF’S SPECIAL | april 2012

jack giegerich

restaurant fuel kitchen and health bar | cuisine american 1005 Waugh Dr. 77019 | 713.677.0391 | www.fuelhealthbar.com

Giegerich comes from a culinary background with a passion for cooking great food that just so happens to be healthy. A graduate of the famous Le Cordon Bleu culinary academy, Jack plans on competing in his first sprint triathlon in 2012.\

What ingredient can you not live without in the kitchen and why?

Sea Salt. It took a little time to figure out how to use it correctly, but now it is essential. In my opinion sea salt is superior to kosher mainly because sea salt contains many essential nutrients that kosher does not. Nowadays, every little bit helps.

 

What utensil can you not live without?

Fish spatula. Other than a Chef’s knife, to me, it is the most universal tool in the kitchen.

 

What’s your pet peeve?

Organization. How can you effectively order products for your kitchen if you don’t know what you already have on hand?

Favorite affordable wine? 

Blackstone’s Rubric. It’s a very nice everyday table wine.

Favorite place for dessert?

Alphorn Bakery off Dallas. Chef Peter and his team have been doing it the right way for years!!

Is there a food you won’t eat?

Ketchup!! I despise this condiment in every way – smell, taste, color. Tomatoes should have never been sweetened in that manner.

What is your comfort food?

When it is time to make an unhealthy choice, I go all out! A great pizza with a thick crust and a heavy dark beer always do the trick.

Do you use a recipe or wing it?

Recipes always. At Fuel it is a core value to have consistency and label integrity with all of our food.

What do you see as the next food trend?

I’m betting the house on leaner and healthier foods. I guarantee Houstonians are tired of the stigma of fattest city in the U.S.

At home, what do you keep on hand to serve drop-in guests? 

Does wine count?

What would people be surprised to find in your home refrigerator?

A vegetable drawer with the best of intentions gone bad.

What magazine cover, other than 002’s, would you like to be featured on?

Health and Fitness. Food and fitness go hand and hand with becoming healthier.

Favorite late night spot for a bite? 

Hugo’s. Chef Ortega’s Tuna Ceviche is “Out of this world” Good!!

Best brunch? 

My house. Potato and veggie egg white omelet and mimosas with my wife and endless entertainment from our one-year-old boy.

 

Favorite sandwich Old school grilled cheese with a fresh tomato soup.

Favorite ice cream mix-in/topping Sprinkles always make you smile.

Favorite truck food Snow balls.

Favorite spot to exercise/run Green belts in Kingwood.

 

Photography by Kennon Evett

CLUB + LOUNGE REVIEW | april 2012

double trouble 

caffeine+cocktails

turns the dirty thirty this year

3622 main st. | houston, tx 77002 | 713.874.0096

Back while tending bar at Poison Girl, Robin Berwick and Robin Whalan knew they would eventually bring their brand of “lounge” to the maybe coined “underground” or “craft” scene of H-Town. They had the loyal fans and the talent, and after plenty of late night brainstorming sessions and a year of hard work, the idea became reality. Double Trouble Caffeine & Cocktails (3622 Main Street), a pseudo tiki-inspired coffee and cocktail lounge, is a more than welcome addition to its section of Main Street, where cats walk on leashes, the light rail scares you just a little and character trumps all.

Before we get into the trouble at hand, let’s set the stage a bit. Double Trouble is located in quite possibly my favorite part of Midtown. Or is this Downtown?  It doesn’t matter, you’ve been here before and you loved it. Some call it the best block in Houston. Remember that night you hit the Big Top for a birthday party or the Continental Club for a show way back when?  Jesus Saves? Absolutely. There’s even a good chance you hopped off the light rail at the HCC/Ensemble stop and had lunch at Tacos A Go-Go or Natachee’s. At times I wonder why I don’t go over there more often. Now you are wondering too. Plenty of excuses but here is one to rule out: As we mentioned, the light rail can be a little scary, so if you fall in that camp, well, take your fixie, or your car – there is ample parking with half the block situated as a pay lot with plenty of spots and bikes are always welcome.

Double Trouble is a hideaway of sorts; there isn’t even much of a sign, at least not on the front. One of those, here we are but here we aren’t kind of places. Actually, it’s much like the area around it, and the Robins like it that way. They should – they put a lot of effort into designing/building the place. Double Trouble has this cool vintage beach haunt meets minimalist warehouse loft vibe. The metal and bamboo draws you in, but it’s the Polynesian-themed artifacts and vintage touches that truly round out the interior. You’ll find leatherbound, high chairs at the bar or shorties, a couch and marble tables in the main space. A worth-mentioning playlist emits from the handmade Steamboat speakers that look like they’re straight out of a 70’s record lounge. While admiring their craftsmanship, you’’ll be wishing Shazam wasn’t so damn slow. Did you notice that brick and metal façade? It shades a perfectly designed patio. Oh, yeah, the Robins thought of everything. All walks of life grace Main Street at one time or another, so why not sit outside and enjoy the show! Here is a tip: When you get thirsty for another stellar Mai Tai or a custom creation, which you will, head over to the window in the corner of the patio. One of the “Double Troublemakers” (the handpicked bartenders!) will be right over to recommend a second round. Service with a smile is a virtue here at Double Trouble.

Double Trouble is open from 7am – 2am, pretty generous hours if you ask me. Why open at 7am? Caffeine, of course. Greenway Coffee Company beans (nod to local roots) are ready and willing to provide any fix you might need. Day or night. Cocktails? Well, it’s in the name for good reason. What’s that, you like beer? Good news! Six taps will rotate new local favorites and other carefully selected craft beers. Check that fridge for bottles and cans as well.

You’ve got character, right? Well, saddle up. Double Trouble Caffeine & Cocktails adds just another reason to take a trip over to that ol’ (or new!) favorite area of town … you won’t regret it. You’re welcome for the reminder.

 

By Michael Cook | Photography by Daniel Ortiz

BEA HERE NOW | april 2012

“April showers bring May flowers.” I’m hoping this rings true because most of February was gray and the beginning of March is not off to a shining start. I’m in need of my Vitamin D. And from the looks of my brunch at Canopy (mentioned below) everyone in Houston is looking for the sun too. By the time this is in your hands I hope you’ve been able to check out all the new places that are sprouting up in the city. The rapid rate of these openings is exciting. Although this also means there is no room for error. When we have this many options, you really have only one moment to shine. I don’t know many people who will go back to mediocre experiences for the sake of giving it one more shot. In reality, we don’t need to. You had favorite places you go to before; not having a new place is really no harm done. It’s finding a new place to add to the mix that’s exciting. It gets you out of the rut. So to all the new restaurants/gastropubs, etc., welcome! We can’t wait to make you part of our favorites.

This month I reacquaint myself with an old favorite, indulge in Italiano, hit a sweet note and start my day off with the most important meal.

Not Your Ordinary Salad

Shandy’s Café

5814 Memorial Dr. 713.426.2675 | www.shandycafe.com

For consistency, they get top marks. I had strayed a bit from Shandy’s but I’m back. Lately I can’t get enough of this shrimp and avocado salad. Not all shrimp and avocado salads are created equal – this one is the best! With plump, fresh, steamed shrimp, chunks of avocado settled atop greens, diced tomato, bacon bits and sprinkles of freshly grated Parmesan cheese in a spicy honey mustard dressing, this salad is the making of an epic experience.

Sweet Deal 

Sweet

801 Town & Country Blvd. 713.64.SWEET (79338) www.sweethouston.com

There is no shortage of cupcake shops in Houston, and while all have their signature “stamp” or sprinkle or thick icing, this is the first place I’ve seen make cupcakes cute. We ordered these adorable minis for my mother’s birthday and were in love with their mini Hostess®-like cupcake, white swirl across the top and all, and this lovely little red velvet topped with the cutest tiny heart. I see a recurring theme here with last month’s heart-topped coffee. Love it!

Famosi Per La Pizza

Piola

3201 Louisiana St. 713.524.8222 www.piola.it

Their gnocchi and pizza are some of our favorites. And being that they are relatively close to us, I don’t make it in enough. If you’re in for lunch or dinner, you must try the gnocchi pompei (tomato sauce+fresh basil). Get as an appetizer to share so there’s less guilt with indulging in BOTH pasta and pizza. Mmmm, if only they were good for me. We order their classic Margherita and top each slice with a serving from their Lollo (arugula+shaved grana padano+Italian dressing) salad to get some greens in our meal too. This combo adds just a little something to each bite.

Breakfast Is Served! 

Canopy

3939 Montrose Blvd. 713.528.6848 | www.canopyhouston.com

Breakfast is rumored to not be a priority for a chef – and I think that’s lame. It’s not only the MOST important meal of the day but it’s also my favorite. Canopy has the basics but it also has fresh pastries; it’s everything I might crave in the morning in one place. We started with monkey bread and a cinnamon roll and a pitcher of mimosas. For breakfast, I had this perfect Canopy egg plate. Two eggs scrambled with Apple- wood smoked bacon, toast, crispy potatoes and fresh fruit were the beginning of a perfect, beautiful patio weather Sunday morning.

OPEN | april 2012

STREET EAST-STICK IT

www.stickitfoodtruck.com

CUISINE gourmet food on a stick!

If you see this red truck on the road or parked serving out some treats, do yourself a favor and pull over. The day they happened to be parked in our lot happened to be a Friday during the Lenten season so their Fish on a stick sounded perfect. This fish is Lone Star Beer battered, served on a stick with handcut fries and a malt vinegar aioli features nuggets of fish on a stick, not a fish filet on a stick. Without an ounce of apprehension I went for the fish stick and they didn’t disappoint. It was tender, fresh, crispy white fluff of fish. This sounds crazy but it was one of the best pieces of fish I’ve ever had. If fish is not your cup of tea, they also had grilled beef with grilled zucchini and sausage, roasted jalapeno with cheddar mash taters, grilled Asian glazed chicken with bacon fried rice and tempura green beans and shitake mushrooms, plus a dessert option of funnel cake-battered brie cheese with four-berry compote. The special that day was classic sausage on a stick! Each portion comes with only one stick so if you are extra hungry you do have the option of adding on an extra stick. Prices range from $3-$9 but you get a pretty hefty serving even with one stick. Adding on will cost you. Their slogan is right, “everything tastes better on a stick!”

 

UCHI

904a westheimer

www.uchirestaurants.com | 713.522.4808

CUISINE japanese

CHEF TYSON COLE

All the hype and rumors are true. It is amazing. It can be pricey. And there is almost always a wait. Regardless of reservations. It’s small to have that many people waiting but we’re all there for the same thing, for the Uchi experience. Now that we’ve saved you of all the things that will give you a headache, let us tell you why you need to endure this for one of the best meals of your life. You wait because their philosophy is to serve each dish one at a time and in the order you should enjoy them. There will never be a platter of dishes on your table. Just one plate impeccably presented for you to savor each component that makes that dish mind-blowing. The décor is a dim, organic shell of natural wood. Which is perfect for creating Zen in a space that is constantly busy. Most notable (that we order every time because they have yet to disappoint) are the yokai berry, hama chili, walu walu and the hamachi nabe. The yokai berry, from the cool tastings on the menu, features little cubes of Atlantic salmon, Asian pear and leaves of crunchy dinosaur kale sprouting along the plate with yuzu. Also from the cool tastings is the hama chili. Baby yellowtail is served with ponzu, thai chili and orange supreme. Both are clean and fresh, cool plates that act like a cleanser of sorts to ready you for the rich flavors that are to come. From the hot tastings, we had the walu walu and Hamachi nabe. Oak-grilled escolar, candied citrus, yuzpon and myoga make up the walu walu. A tender piece of escolar is served with a spoon to soup up the wonderful sauce beneath it with each bite. Our absolute favorite though is the hamachi nabe. A bowl is presented with koshi hikari rice, baby yellowtail chunks hidden throughout a farm egg on top sprinkled with bonito flakes in a soy broth. The presentation is amazing when they drop in the sauce to mix all the components together and the flakes “dance.” You can eat it right away or let the bowl (it’s a hot bowl) sit and it makes the rice crispy. Either way, if you are sharing, it will be gone in a flash! The best way to order though is to ask your server. They are all highly knowledgeable and ready to help with any question.

 

POLLO CAMPERO

Photography by Jamie Padgett

4701 WASHINGTON AVE.

www.houston.campero.com | 713.863.8200

CUISINE POLLO AKA CHICKEN!

CHEF N/A

Since 1971 they’ve been enticing customers with their ancient Guatemalan recipe blend of spices to produce a unique, juicy, crispy chicken. New to the Washington Corridor, this chicken Mecca not only offers their special chicken but also has empanadas, pork, steak, carnitas specialties, salads, sandwiches and more. And from the look of the lines, no one is having a problem in finding something that fits their appetite. Seeing as how they are named after their famous Pollo Campero we had to try that for sure along with their chicken tomatillo taco. The pollo campero fried is their world-famous hand-breaded and fried chicken with their blend of traditional Latin flavor. In my to-go container came a breast and wing with chips and rice and beans. This combo comes with two sides and you can opt to order a leg and thigh or 2 legs and I thigh as well. Should you be on a diet, they offer a Peruvian grilled chicken citrus marinated and grilled to perfection. One bite an it’s easy to see why they are famous for their chicken. It’s crispy, juicy with a flavorful spice blend that wasn’t overwhelming but addicting. The chicken tomatillo taco on the other hand is a regular-sized taco, hence their taco trio combo because you can eat more than just one. Peruvian-style grilled chicken, green tomatillo, panela cheese, red onions and an avocado sauce are wrapped in a corn tortilla. It was very light, tasty and I could have had three of those alone! To dress up your tacos, chips or chicken, check out their salsas with varying degrees of spice. Plus, don’t miss the beverage bar with aguas de horchatas, tamarindo y Jamaica, all traditional Latin drinks.

 

By Beatrice Allen

RESTAURANT NEWS

email us at b.valencia@002mag.com

DINE WRITE | april 2012

CUBANO ROOTS

Located in Bellaire, this Cuban cuisine mainstay got its start with two people who fell in love. And it shows in the food. you’ll find this clean, expansive establishment Just off Bissonnet. Boasting a picturesque patio in front and wide-open style seating inside, one can only imagine what it must be like when it’s busy. Not only do you get a taste of Cuban flavor but a glimpse into the culture as well.

1. cafe cubano | 2. interior | 3. ropa vieja | 4. fried plantains

 

During our lunch visit, the tables all around us spoke Spanish, lingered on dishes and waited for those dishes while conversing over their famous coffee.

Their menu reads of plantain, empanada, yuca and more appetizers, specialty sandwiches, a small array of soups and salad and their house specialties.

We went with our waiter’s recommendations.

We started with their Mariquitas. While we waited for those we were served a breadbasket with the fluffiest bread and the best butter. It’s like the butter in Mexico – salty and heavenly with fresh bread.

A bowl overflowing with plantain chips drizzled with a garlic sauce is what to expect when you order the Mariquitas. And by garlic sauce they mean diced garlic chunks in oil drizzled over the plantains. I smell of garlic for days when I eat it this way but it’s worth every bite. There’s a sweet but savory factor with this combo. Plus it’s surprisingly light as opposed to a chip basket.

For our entrées we went with the wildly popular and traditional Ropa Vieja and our waiter’s favorite, Camarones Enchilados.

Ropa Vieja literally translates to “old clothes.” That’s not what you’re eating, rather it refers to the shredded meat with vegetables that resemble rags of colorful old cloth. Its consistency is that of a beef stew because it does come in a sauce. It’s served most commonly with rice, beans and maduros. At Café Piquet, the rice and black beans are mixed and it’s served with boiled yuca on the side.

The shredded beef (usually a tough but tasty cut such as flank steak) is slow-cooked, shredded and then served in a tomato or sofrito sauce.

Sofrito is a sauce made of garlic, onions, peppers, oregano and tomatoes fried in olive oil. It’s not meant to be eaten by itself but forms a flavor base used in many other dishes. It’s not hard to see why this is their most popular dish. With tender pieces of meat in a light sauce combined with beans and rice, each bite is perfection. The sauce is not over-salted or over-spiced and highlights the meat nicely.

Camarones Enchilados translates to “spicy shrimp” but, fear not, it’s not that kind of spice. Not every Latin culture is about heat in the sense of spicy, hot heat. This is their Cuban Shrimp Creole. The plate is served with a mound of white rice, a few fried green plantains and in a separate little dish are several perfectly cooked shrimp in a red sauce with peppers. In my opinion, there is no spice in the sense of heat to it. It’s a flavorful broth that, combined with shrimp atop the rice, is a knockout. It’s a lighter dish than one might expect and the flavors are simpler than the richness in the Ropa Vieja. The fried green plantains are little fried cakes of salty plantains not the sweet version (although they do offer those as well and they looked dynamite!).

To top off my lunch I couldn’t resist a Café Cubano. My aunt’s husband is Cuban and she never fails to make us this delicious treat when we go to her house. It’s an art. An espresso demitasse (the little espresso cup) is just the thing to shock your system after lunch. At least that’s what it does to me. They serve the espresso with sugar so it’s a sweet but strong shock that for someone who doesn’t handle coffee well, I would order it any time.

If you’re looking for something new, to get cultured or maybe you miss your culture, Café Piquet can fill that void – no plane ticket required.

 

MENU SELECTIONS

en español

 

aperitivos

• Empanada de Carne $1.95

• Yuca Frita con Mojo $3.25

• Calamares Fritos $8.95

• TOSTONES $3.95

sandwiches

• El Cubano- Queso, suizo, jamon, pierna $5.95

• Pan con Bistec- Bistec a la plancha, cebolla,

papitas $7.50

• Sandwich de Policia- Masitas, maduros $6.95

• Sandwich VEGETARIANO- Queso suizo, lechuga,

tomates, aceite de olivia, mayonesa $4.95

especialidad de la casa

• Pechuga de Pollo a la Plancha- Arroz

blanco, frijoles negros, platanos maduros

$10.50

• Chuletas Empanizadas- Moros, platanos

maduros $12.25

• Picadillo- Arroz blanco, frijoles negros,

platanos maduros $13.25

• Vaca Frita- Arroz blanco, frijoles negros,

platanos maduros $10.95

• Camarones al Ajillo- Arroz blanco, frijoles

negros, platanos maduros $15.75

 

Café piquet

5757 bissonnet

BELLAIRE, TX 77401

713.664.1031 | www.cafepiquet.net

 

Hours

Monday – Thursday, 11am-9pm

Friday – Saturday, 11am-10pm

Sunday 11am-7pm

 

By Beatrice Allen | Photography by Kim Coffman